Type: Trad, Sport, 50 ft Fixed Hardware (4)
FA: Mike Brooks, 1982 FFA Charlie Fowler and J. Huggins, 1986
Page Views: 1,252 total · 9/month
Shared By: Paul S on Jul 3, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

I loved this route, the only problem is that it is a little short... It takes the shallow dihedral just left of the variation to Mail Ridge via two bolts and a fixed nut at the top to a bolted anchor. The shallow dihedral makes a W with the dihedral being the middle of the W and the aretes being the bottom points of the W...if that makes sense...the climb is possible from slanting crimps on the face left of the left arete, and slapping up the right arete while using the dihedral and smears for your feet, I loved it!

Location

Starts just left of Mail Ridge.

Protection

There are two good bolts on this route with a fixed nut for the exit moves out of the dihedral. A RP or two can be placed before the 1st bolt.

A TR can be set up by climbing the 1st half of the variation to Mail Ridge and just moving left before going into the 2nd dihedral of that route.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.12 PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.12 PG13
Did this one a long time ago- memory is vague, but what I recall is that it cut my finger tips and was pretty painful. The moves were difficult, but not terribly hard if you could block out the pain. As such, it was not super-fun.
Getting to the first bolt probably merits the PG-13 rating, but it is not the crux. Feb 25, 2008
Joseph Crotty
Broomfield, CO
  5.12b/c PG13
Joseph Crotty   Broomfield, CO
  5.12b/c PG13
Sharp, technical and punchy. Stick clip the first bolt. No longer a fixed nut. Rack two quick draws and a HB alloy offset 9 red nut. The nut is tricky to set in the optimal position and a bit spicy, but it is a safe fall. If the nut is not in situ for your lead burn you can add another letter to the grade. The top out is a 15' 5.7 slab with no pro, so don't blow it. If you want to equip the route from above you can climb the 50' 5.6 corner to the left to gain the anchor and then lower or rappel. The usual Eldo sandbag for the grade.

Joe Huggins said that Charlie Fowler and he did the FFA on a couple of pins they fixed in the shallow corner. It was later retro bolted by someone (i.e., unknown) and the pins removed. Charlie installed the original two bolt anchor which I upgraded. Dec 21, 2018