Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: T. Bubb, J. Meir, 11/2003
Page Views: 926 total · 5/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 8, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: COVID-19 Notice & Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route climbs up from the second pitch of Ignominity for a 3rd/4th pitch. Climb past the dual thin cracks of Ignominity traverse right into a second crack system, which is above an old bolt not shown in Rossiter's topo of the area. This is just right of what I believe to be his "10b variation" of P3 of Ignominity (pulling over at the bolt is ~12b). Climb the ensuing thin crack in the shallow corner for 30 feet to a ledge. From that ledge this climb continues.

The steep wall above has a system of thin fragile flakes going though it, tending slightly left after a good 2.5" round pocket. Protect the pocket with a 3" cam (Camalot is poor here, use something else) and consider stuffing a few nuts into the flakes if so desired (the only pro on the FA). Continue up and left through the flakes (delicate) to the ledge up top, finishing on a ledge between the final pitches of Sooberb and Long John Wall, maybe 10 feet left of the start of the route "The Knife."

Descend as from the ledge by moving towards the Sooberb Roof and rap from trees (3 raps or 2 raps with a 70m rope) or finish on "The Knife" (recommended) and descend as for Long John Wall.

The name of this route was derived by my partner and me from two points -- the first being that the route was done while I had the flu and was climbing with the namesake temperature increase. The second being 'the fever' to go climb when sick anyway...and added at that, 'the fever' to explore obscure new territory despite the poor-looking pro.

Post-note. The above is altered from the original post and is actually found to be parts of several different routes that pre-existed it.

Protection

Sparse! A few small to medium nuts behind uneven thin flakes 1/2 way up (VS) or probably a good 3" Cam (blue Camalot was just too large, yellow probably would have been too thin. (Orange HB would have been near-perfect) for a pre-crux good piece in a clean, solid pocket. (S)

Photos