Dead Letter Department
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Duncan Ferguson, solo, 1971 |
Page Views: | 3,072 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | Ivan Rezucha on Jan 18, 2003 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This route is surprisingly nice with varied climbing. It's the large left facing corner at the right edge of the Mescaline wall. The route officially goes up the off-width at the base of the corner, and perhaps someday a 5.8 climber will actually do that, but it's much more sensible to climb a short steep right facing corner/finger crack a few feet left. Above that easy climbing leads to a steep intimidating corner. Gear is good, and footholds on the right wall make it reasonable. Swing around right onto a slab near the top of the corner. Above is a nasty looking chimney, but you can get inside and climb it easily on face holds. Above the chimney, the rock deteriorates a bit as you enter a tall red band. The route isn't clear here. We climbed just right of a large pine tree, and then angled left around the corner to a very nice belay ledge. From here angle left for a short pitch to the walk off. To do the walk off, walk straight left (north) being very careful not to knock rocks down on the very popular Mescaline area. Sneak past a narrow spot, then angle down a ramp. This is all very easy but somewhat exposed, and you would die if you fell off. 3rd class, meaning a rope might be advisable for beginners. The last 20 feet or so involve some 5.5 (??) moves to get past a chockstone to the ground.
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