Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Duncan Ferguson, solo, 1971
Page Views: 1,953 total · 10/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Jan 18, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


24 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route is surprisingly nice with varied climbing. It's the large left facing corner at the right edge of the Mescaline wall. The route officially goes up the off-width at the base of the corner, and perhaps someday a 5.8 climber will actually do that, but it's much more sensible to climb a short steep right facing corner/finger crack a few feet left. Above that easy climbing leads to a steep intimidating corner. Gear is good, and footholds on the right wall make it reasonable. Swing around right onto a slab near the top of the corner. Above is a nasty looking chimney, but you can get inside and climb it easily on face holds. Above the chimney, the rock deteriorates a bit as you enter a tall red band. The route isn't clear here. We climbed just right of a large pine tree, and then angled left around the corner to a very nice belay ledge. From here angle left for a short pitch to the walk off. To do the walk off, walk straight left (north) being very careful not to knock rocks down on the very popular Mescaline area. Sneak past a narrow spot, then angle down a ramp. This is all very easy but somewhat exposed, and you would die if you fell off. 3rd class, meaning a rope might be advisable for beginners. The last 20 feet or so involve some 5.5 (??) moves to get past a chockstone to the ground.

Protection

Standard rack. Big gear if you plan to climb the short initial offwidth.
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.8
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.8
Yeah, quite fun. 80' of great climbing, surrounded by 20' at each end of unremarkable climbing. 5.8 is about right If you were to do the OW start "pure" it might be harder, but it is so easy to stem out and walk up it, it's contrived not to do so. The seam at the OW, on the right side takes very good RP's or other brass and so there is no need for OW gear even for a "pure" ascent if you have a set of brass. The middle section (all be the first & last 20' protects on a set of nuts and a set of cams to 3.5" which will practially jump off of your rack into the crack.

To descend, finish the climb to the right (southeast) to the BIG pine & rap from the newly refurbished rap slings & rings. A single 70M rope gets you to the main ledge & you walk off to the west a few meters. Jan 24, 2005
Clint Locks
Boulder
  5.8
Clint Locks   Boulder
  5.8
The description says this is two pitches. It can be done easily on a 60m as one. Ivan's "second pitch" seems to set you up for the Handcracker Direct walk-off above the Pony Express area, which seems to be a categorically bad idea. You can rap with a 60m rope from the aforementioned tree down to the anchors atop the slab finish of Hyperspace Roundup, though make sure to angle your rappel slightly up-ridge, or accessing those is a bit problematic. It's another short rap to the ground. Jan 30, 2011
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.8
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.8
Fun pitch. The OW start is pretty good. RPs will protect it, or throw in a #6 Camalot which also protects it well. Feb 18, 2011
Mathias
Loveland, CO
 
Mathias   Loveland, CO
 
I tried the OW repeatedly, but it's way beyond me. It was obvious I wasn't going to get it once I got a hand in there, but I tried it anyway because, why not? Then I took the line up the crack on the left as in one of the beta photos.

I really enjoyed this route. If you're looking for solid 5.8 climbing, this isn't it, but it's very varied and I liked every bit of it. The steps up the flake were interesting, the face climb through the broken section with occasional stemming was a nice change of pace, the dihedral with the finger crack was challenging but rewarding, and the chimney was a lot of fun (even if a bit tight for me). Add in playing with the OW at the bottom and all the gear options, and this is something I'd happily do again. Apr 5, 2015
Travis Provin
Boulder CO
 
Travis Provin   Boulder CO
 
Instead of heading left after the red band of bad rock, we went right and ended up at the base of the last pitch of Handcracker. From here, if you are looking straight at Handcracker, we went climber's right (east) towards a short, fun crack with a bit of a traverse at the end. We topped out and walked northwest up and over to the standard walkoff. This variation was very fun! Apr 9, 2016