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> West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John
Dead Letter Department
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2 from 24 votes
Routes in West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John
Barrel of Monkeys S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a | |
Bloke On The Side T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R | |
Bridget the Midget T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 | |
Byway T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R | |
Chick on the Side T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Conversions T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X | |
Court Jester T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 | |
Crazy Stairs T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Curving Dihedral T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Dandi-Line T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Dead Letter Department T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Drug Abuse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Erickson's Finish T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
False Prophet T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
Fever, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R | |
Going Postal T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Good Ship Venus T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 | |
Handcracker Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Hanging Chad T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 | |
Heat Wave T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Horse d'Oeuvre (aka Pony Express P1 to Zip Code) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Human Factor, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R | |
Hyperspace Roundup T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 | |
Ignominity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Ignore Me T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R | |
Iron Horse T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
Knife, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 | |
Lightning Bolt Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Lost in the Netherlands T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Mail Ridge Tower Link-Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Mail Ridge, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Mesca-Line T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Muscle and Hate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 | |
Pluto T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Pony Express T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Pony Express, Briggs' Variation T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
Practice Climb 101 T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R | |
Practice Wall T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Prison Sex T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Pygmy Pony T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Quick Silver T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Quicksand T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R | |
Quiet Desperation T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R | |
Reckoning T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b | |
Rhombohedral T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 | |
Rope to Ruin T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Seemingly Innocent T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 | |
Side Wall, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R | |
Sister Morphine T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Sooberb T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Sooberb Lite T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Sundial T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Sword Of Damocles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Thin Ice T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X | |
Think Quickly T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R | |
Unbroken Chain T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R | |
Warp Drive Overload S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a | |
Who's Holding T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 | |
Wind Tunnel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R | |
Zeros and Ones T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 | |
variation to Mail Ridge T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
Type: | Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches |
FA: | Duncan Ferguson, solo, 1971 |
Page Views: | 1,819 total, 10/month |
Shared By: | Ivan Rezucha on Jan 18, 2003 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Seasonal Closures
Details
Seasonal Closures (3/22/17, effective immediately)
Shirttail Peak is closed to all activities, including rock climbing, due to Golden Eagles nesting in the area. Trespassing constitutesâ€‹ a federal offense and violators will be cited. Eagles are sensitive to disturbance caused by human presence and may abandon their nest and young as a result.â€‹
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
From the BCC email: Millenium Crag is closed.
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Shirttail Peak is closed to all activities, including rock climbing, due to Golden Eagles nesting in the area. Trespassing constitutesâ€‹ a federal offense and violators will be cited. Eagles are sensitive to disturbance caused by human presence and may abandon their nest and young as a result.â€‹
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
From the BCC email: Millenium Crag is closed.
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This route is surprisingly nice with varied climbing. It's the large left facing corner at the right edge of the Mescaline wall. The route officially goes up the off-width at the base of the corner, and perhaps someday a 5.8 climber will actually do that, but it's much more sensible to climb a short steep right facing corner/finger crack a few feet left. Above that easy climbing leads to a steep intimidating corner. Gear is good, and footholds on the right wall make it reasonable. Swing around right onto a slab near the top of the corner. Above is a nasty looking chimney, but you can get inside and climb it easily on face holds. Above the chimney, the rock deteriorates a bit as you enter a tall red band. The route isn't clear here. We climbed just right of a large pine tree, and then angled left around the corner to a very nice belay ledge. From here angle left for a short pitch to the walk off. To do the walk off, walk straight left (north) being very careful not to knock rocks down on the very popular Mescaline area. Sneak past a narrow spot, then angle down a ramp. This is all very easy but somewhat exposed, and you would die if you fell off. 3rd class, meaning a rope might be advisable for beginners. The last 20 feet or so involve some 5.5 (??) moves to get past a chockstone to the ground.Photos
5 Comments
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Boulder CO
Loveland, CO
I really enjoyed this route. If you're looking for solid 5.8 climbing, this isn't it, but it's very varied and I liked every bit of it. The steps up the flake were interesting, the face climb through the broken section with occasional stemming was a nice change of pace, the dihedral with the finger crack was challenging but rewarding, and the chimney was a lot of fun (even if a bit tight for me). Add in playing with the OW at the bottom and all the gear options, and this is something I'd happily do again. Apr 5, 2015
Denver
Boulder
Around Boulder, CO
To descend, finish the climb to the right (southeast) to the BIG pine & rap from the newly refurbished rap slings & rings. A single 70M rope gets you to the main ledge & you walk off to the west a few meters. Jan 24, 2005