Type: Trad, 150 ft Fixed Hardware (7)
FA: Dan Hare & Mike Engle, 1989
Page Views: 2,410 total · 14/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jun 9, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Iron Pony is decent climbing up the arete left of the Pony Express dihedral.

Take p1 of Pony Express until it enters the dihedral then hand traverse left for 10 feet on big lichen-covered flakes. Stand up on these flakes, clip a bolt, and step up onto the face and arete. Continue up past 5 more bolts.

You spend a lot of time on the right side of the arete, and the location of the bolts (on the left side) can make for tough clips. Sustained and difficult, perhaps a sandbag at 11d.

Protection

Some finger-size cams and wires. 6 bolts.

Photos

Bob Rotert
  5.11+
Bob Rotert  
  5.11+
Great route and after getting to the second bolt you do climba a bit on the right side of the arete. Essentially doing part of the crux of Pony Express with added hard climbing on up the arete. I thought clipping, I think, the third bolt was a bit cruxy. Fun arete climbing! Dec 22, 2006
Hank Caylor
Glenwood Springs, CO
Hank Caylor   Glenwood Springs, CO  
Bobby, maybe it's just my old age, or I didn't figure it out first try. But I thought this thing was kinda 12a. Very good climb though. Dec 22, 2006
Bob Rotert
  5.11+
Bob Rotert  
  5.11+
Hank, your age probably isn't the factor. Now not seeing the moves right off might be a possibility. \;o) Damnit, I can't read or even place RPs without glasses anymore!! Makes it hard to find those micro edges quick....

I wouldn't argue with anyone's assessment of 12a for this one. Hearing you feel this is 12a sure makes an old guy like me feel good, since I didn't think I could climb 12a anymore. I was just going along with the original rating, so I wouldn't look bad. It looks like Josh also thought it was a sandbag for 11+. Good to see your response here. Cheers. Dec 22, 2006
Scott Bennett
Michigan
  5.11d
Scott Bennett   Michigan
  5.11d
I really enjoyed this climb, I stayed on the left side of the arete the whole time and it seemed like solid 11d. I guess at the crux you are grabbing the left side of the big jug on Pony Express, so it wouldn't be hard to escape into that route, but it flows pretty well to stay left.

I do agree that the third bolt is hard to clip, but only because of the insecure climbing through there, the bolts are well-placed.

Recommended link: the first (crux) half of Zip Code into Iron Pony for a good long multi-crux pitch.

-Scott Feb 12, 2010
Lisa Montgomery
Golden, CO
  5.12a
Lisa Montgomery   Golden, CO
  5.12a
I thought this was a totally cool route with great position on the arete and cryptic moves. Josh mentions it in the description, but I'll reiterate that you take the juggy hand traverse left from Pony Express (do not continue up the right-facing corner). Place a finger-sized piece at the end of the traverse as you start to move up toward the first bolt. There's a sizable runout between 1st and 2nd bolts, but it's easy climbing. I found the crux to be clipping the 3rd bolt, so having the draws prehung would increase your odds of sending. This is easy to do by climbing Zip Code and then hanging the draws on rappel. Jan 22, 2016
Lisa Montgomery
Golden, CO
  5.12a
Lisa Montgomery   Golden, CO
  5.12a
Route update: the 6 lead bolts on Iron Pony were replaced with 1/2" stainless 5-piece bolts. Five out of the six holes were reused. Thanks, ACE, for supplying the hardware: Action Committee for Eldo
May 25, 2016
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.12-
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.12-
Hardest 11d in Eldo! Hanging a double draw on the third bolt allows you to clip before committing to the crux moves. Highly recommend! Mar 4, 2017