Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: T. Bubb, C. Parks, January 2003.
Page Views: 709 total · 5/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 11, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route was climbed to access a cool-looking section of crack high on the wall that we could not identify in the book. This is not too far right of Bridget The Midget.
Climb some easy cracks, perhaps 5.7 to access a steep fist-crack below a small tree that is 30 meters up. This tree has a 1" thick trunk.
Where you encounter some small shrubs in the crack, (and just before it gets wide) step left and climb the arete to the top, at a ledge. My notes include the text "cool #7 or #8 stopper placement 10' below the tree" which probably means that this prevents a runout, so be sure to have one with you.
Finish on a ledge and go 10 meters to the right to belay and rap from the tree and anchor fixed at the base of "Muscle and Hate."

Location

Just right of Bridget the Midget in the Netherlands.

Protection

A standard rack up to fist sized and including medium stoppers.

Photos

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M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
Surprisingly good! May 8, 2007