Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 170 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||C. Harrison, M. Brooks, J. Stuberg, 1981|
|Page Views:||416 total · 7/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Dec 7, 2015|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
For more information visit:
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Start by finding the routes Chick on the Side and Bloke On The Side. Just downhill from these there is a slanting rotten band that diagonals up and north on the West Ridge, creating a 6' wide, yawning runnel.
This runnel reaches the ground at the base about 30' below a 10' tall dead tree trunk that is somewhat twisted and denuded of any bark or branches: we refer to this as 'The Corkscrew.
Start on the ground at the runnel, which nearly forms a right-facing corner. Proceed upward to the 'Corkscrew' tree and pass it on either side, according to what you think will minimize future drag, should you be considering running pitches together. A few meters above the tree, a steep bulge hangs overhead, guarding access to a right-facing, hanging dihedral.
Climb up through the bulge after placing some gear. Watch for loose flakes in the mix of things. The ones that were obvious holds to me turned out to be quite solid, but YMMV, and your belayer is now 40' below, eyeing you with suspicion and checking her helmet while you are doing the steep crux.
Head on up the corner and onto the very right hand edge of a sloping ledge. Belay somewhere on that, now 90' off the ground, or continue climbing (which I did).
As you pull to the left perhaps about 10', the climb becomes a series of slabs and overhangs with very large incuts and vertical flakes for holds. The protection is only occasional, but the holds would be difficult to fall off of.
Pull through these stepded slabs and up over the apex of a final slab. Climb down the back side of it onto a high point on a gravelly ledge behind there. I found a belay there built of a stopper and a few small-hands-sized cams.
Seat the rope up and over on the least sharp area, and make sure you have minimal frition, unless you have a... (wait for it) Rope to Ruin.
From the top of this you can see the top of Handcracker Direct to the left (North), but I recommend finding 'Sword Of Damocles' for a finish consistent in obscurity and grade.