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Unbroken Chain
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British R
Avg: 2.4 from 14
votes
Routes in West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John
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Barrel of Monkeys S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Bloke On The Side T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Bridget the Midget T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Byway T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Chick on the Side T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Conversions T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X |
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Court Jester T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Crazy Stairs T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Curving Dihedral T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Dandi-Line T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dead Letter Department T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Drug Abuse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Erickson's Finish T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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False Prophet T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Fever, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Going Postal T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Good Ship Venus T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Handcracker Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hanging Chad T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Heatwave T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Horse d'Oeuvre (aka Pony Express P1 to Zip Code) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Human Factor, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Hyperspace Roundup T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Ignominity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ignore Me T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Iron Horse T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Junk Mail T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lightning Bolt Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lost in the Netherlands T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mail Ridge Tower Link-Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mail Ridge, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Mesca-Line T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Muscle and Hate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Passing Lane T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Pony Express T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pony Express, Briggs' Variation T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Practice Climb 101 T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Practice Wall T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Prison Sex T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Pygmy Pony T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Quicksand T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Quiet Desperation T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Reckoning T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Rhombohedral T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Rope to Ruin T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Scoff TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Seemingly Innocent T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Side Wall, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Sister Morphine T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Sooberb T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sooberb Lite T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sundial T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sword Of Damocles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unbroken Chain T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Unbroken Prophet T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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variation to Mail Ridge T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Warp Drive Overload S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Who's Holding T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Wind Tunnel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Zeros and Ones T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | Nathan Charlton and Steve Morris, 1984 |
| Page Views: | 2,941 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Dawson on Feb 21, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures
Details
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This route is located on the face to the left of the first pitch of The Side Wall about halfway up the West Ridge. Climb up about 12 feet in the corner of The Side Wall, and then pull up and left following a series of underclings (crux). Follow a dihedral to the anchors. This is a fun toprope or a scary and strenuous lead. The holds are good, but the moves are reachy and the feet poor at the crux. This pitch felt harder and was definitely more pumpy than the first pitch of The Side Wall. There is a fun face climb to the left of this that is easily toproped as well (no name). It seemed to be in the hard 5.11 range somewhere.
Per Adam Brink: Unbroken Chain was radically altered in 2009 when Scott Bennett fell at the crux, ripping off a crucial undercling. The undercling held the only "good" gear to protect the crux (it obviously wasn't that good) as well as the only real hold on the traverse. In its resurrected form, Unbroken Chain (or should it be renamed to Broken Chain?) is one of Eldo's sketchiest 5.11s, not death from the top floor, but you certainly don't want to shit the bed on the crux. You can get #2 and #3 Pecker pitons in the initial corner to "protect" the crux moves going left into the good dihedral. Once you get to the horn jug past the crux at the start of the finishing dihedral, you can place good gear. A fall getting to the horn or placing gear there (which is really balancy) would be a bruiser as you would be falling way right into the initial corner, and that is if the Peckers hold....
It's not quite X rated, but R seems soft. On Wayne Crill's pepper scale, it would be at least 1 habanero, maybe 2... and that's spicy. If it was on the gritstone, it would be E6 6a and as classic and sought after as Downhill Racer at Curbar Edge.
For some reason, Unbroken Chain almost never gets led....
For those super hard trad crushers, this has been onsighted at least once since the undercling broke, by the ninja of Eldorado. It was one of the the three most impressive onsight efforts I have seen in the canyon.
This route is located on the face to the left of the first pitch of The Side Wall. Climb up about 12 feet in the corner of The Side Wall, and then pull up and left following a series of underclings (crux). Follow a dihedral to the anchors. It is a fun toprope or a scary and strenuous lead. The holds are good, but the moves are reachy, and the feet poor at the crux. This pitch felt harder and was definitely more pumpy than the first pitch of The Side Wall.
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