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Routes in West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John

Barrel of Monkeys S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bloke On The Side T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Bridget the Midget T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Byway T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Chick on the Side T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Conversions T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X
Court Jester T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Crazy Stairs T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Curving Dihedral T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dandi-Line T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dead Letter Department T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Drug Abuse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Erickson's Finish T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
False Prophet T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fever, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Going Postal T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Good Ship Venus T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Handcracker Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hanging Chad T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Heat Wave T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Horse d'Oeuvre (aka Pony Express P1 to Zip Code) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Human Factor, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Hyperspace Roundup T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Ignominity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ignore Me T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Iron Horse T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Knife, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lightning Bolt Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lost in the Netherlands T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mail Ridge Tower Link-Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mail Ridge, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mesca-Line T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Muscle and Hate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Pluto T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pony Express T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pony Express, Briggs' Variation T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Practice Climb 101 T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Practice Wall T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prison Sex T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Pygmy Pony T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Quick Silver T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Quicksand T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Quiet Desperation T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Reckoning T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Rhombohedral T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rope to Ruin T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Seemingly Innocent T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Side Wall, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Sister Morphine T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sooberb T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sooberb Lite T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sundial T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sword Of Damocles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thin Ice T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Think Quickly T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Unbroken Chain T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Warp Drive Overload S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Who's Holding T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Wind Tunnel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Zeros and Ones T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
variation to Mail Ridge T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad
FA: Nathan Charlton and Steve Morris, 1984
Page Views: 2,238 total, 12/month
Shared By: Chris Dawson on Feb 21, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route is located on the face to the left of the first pitch of The Side Wall about halfway up the West Ridge. Climb up about 12 ft. in the corner of The Side Wall and then pull up and left following a series of underclings (crux). Follow a dihedral to the anchors. A fun toprope or a scary and strenuous lead. The holds are good, but the moves are reachy and the feet poor at the crux. This pitch felt harder and was definitely more pumpy than the first pitch of The Side Wall. There is a fun face climb to the left of this that is easily toproped as well (no name). It seemed to be in the hard 5.11 range somewhere.

Protection

Easily toproped from the anchor on top of the first pitch of Sidewall (that's what I did). Otherwise, it looks like you could get some small to midsize cams in the underclings.
michalm
Boulder, CO
michalm   Boulder, CO
I haven't led this, but it feels 11+ or harder on TR in its present state. The difficulty is similar to P2 of False Prophet. The crux gear does not look reassuring either. Feb 22, 2016
adam brink
Boulder, CO
  5.11c PG13
adam brink   Boulder, CO
  5.11c PG13
Any of you Eldo locals lead this since Scott broke the crux hold? It seems significantly harder and sketchier. Jan 17, 2016
Steve Annecone
boulder
  5.12a R
Steve Annecone   boulder
  5.12a R
Just TR'd this yesterday and it's waaay harder than before the flake broke.... I'd guess it's now 12a or possibly harder. The formerly sizable undercling is now a much harder to reach, one or two finger "undercling" on the far left side of where the flake broke. It's probably that much harder to lead safely now too. But still a fun and powerful TR for sure! Oct 16, 2009
Scott Bennett
  5.11c R
Scott Bennett  
  5.11c R
Thanks guys, I guess I was wrong about the pitch as well....
I fell with my left hand in the next undercling, about to place the next piece (a green Alien, which I think is pretty good).
Yeah, I'd be interested to hear if it feels harder now. I guess it's not really more dangerous, since the cam behind the flake was bound to blow sooner or later, but you'll have to get more creative with the other gear now. Perhaps double ropes, one clipped through the good TCU in the Sidewall corner, would make the lead a bit safer.
-Scott Apr 14, 2009
adam brink
Boulder, CO
  5.11c PG13
adam brink   Boulder, CO
  5.11c PG13
Scott, I'm so sorry man! I guess I was wrong about that flake and gear. Did you fall from very far above the flake? My thoughts are with you and I hope you have a fast recovery. That route is now probably a lot harder and way more dangerous.

peace,

adam Apr 14, 2009
Chris Archer
  5.11c R
Chris Archer  
  5.11c R
Oh man... sorry to see that picture, Scott. Hope your recovery is quick and look fw to seeing you back in Eldo. Apr 14, 2009
Scott Bennett
  5.11c R
Scott Bennett  
  5.11c R
This route is definitely not X-rated, although a fall low on the route could be dangerous if a piece pulled. I got a cam behind a thin flake/undercling to protect the first moves getting out of the Sidewall corner. Above that, the flake becomes thicker and the gear seemed much more bomber. Link this with False Prophet for a killer 120' pitch.
-Scott Mar 6, 2009
adam brink
Boulder, CO
  5.11c PG13
adam brink   Boulder, CO
  5.11c PG13
While a pumpy lead, there is nothing X about this route. I got 9 bomber pieces in its 45 short feet. As an on-sight, it would definitely be more difficult to nail the placements and moves (maybe 11+). Feb 27, 2006