Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Roger Briggs
Page Views: 1,344 total · 11/month
Shared By: Adam Brink on Mar 1, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

While this is a variation because the other Pony Express was done first, this is actually the direct line. Do Pony Express through the first pitch and into the second pitch. Where the climbing gets hard and Pony Express traverses left into the crack and arete, keep going straight up. This is the pure dihedral line straight up and adds some very technical stemming/palming moves.

Think of the first pitch of Aerial Book but harder. My guess is that Roger Briggs was doing yoga when he did the FA of this. Stretch before you try this.

You can link Iron Horse into this for one stellar 130 foot pitch of 5.11 climbing. Go do it!

Location

Climb straight up Pony Express but don't traverse left to the arete. Climb up the wicked, stemming dihedral.

Protection

All the regular stuff for Pony Express but some much smaller gear for the crux.

Photos

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Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11d PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11d PG13
This is the variation mentioned in the Pony Express Page:
"Going directly up the corner the whole way is thin stemming (5.11d) and is not as well protected."
I don't think that the gear is bad per se, but it is not always where you'd want it, nor bomber. Mar 1, 2009