Type: Sport, 50 ft Fixed Hardware (4)
FA: Mark Rolofson & Dan McQuade, 1987
Page Views: 1,488 total · 15/month
Shared By: Ken Trout on Sep 22, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Warp Drive Overload is the overhung, narrow, face just left of Practice Climb 101. Hidden behind trees, this is one of the better double arete problems in the Western US.

Start on PC 101. Place some gear up high to protect stepping left to first bolt. Extend with three shoulder-length slings, then climb back down.

Step left onto prow and move up to first bolt.
Wayne Crill about to move up to the first bolt. Photo by Mt Project contributor Tom Delaney.
Use hands and toes on both aretes.
Wayne Crill. Photo by Mt Project contributor Tom Delaney.
Clip a second bolt from the not-so-incut hold that Wayne is reaching for in the photo below.
Photo by Mt Project contributor Tom Delaney. Submitted by Mt Project contributor Kevin Murphy.
Finishing off the crux requires commitment!
Photo by Mt Project contributor Phil Lauffen.

Protection

After the small gear placements on Practice Climb 101, just two protection bolts and then the double bolt anchor.

Photos

Wayne Crill
an Altered State
  5.12-
Wayne Crill   an Altered State
  5.12-
Although rather short (yet not out of character for much of Eldo in that regard), this is a really enjoyable, semi-sustained and asthetic line with fun, gymnastic climbing.

Ken's description seems pretty right on, note that S. Levin, surprisingly, has the description wrong in the new Eldo guide. This route DOES NOT start to the left but does in fact begin on p1 of PC101 and then moves L onto the overhanging, double arete face.

Well protected and safe, it's surprising this is not a more popular pitch. It is also not as difficult as advertised. In comparison to other Eldorado climbs, it feels no more difficult that .12-. Mar 22, 2011
Joseph Crotty
Broomfield, CO
  5.12a/b
Joseph Crotty   Broomfield, CO
  5.12a/b
Really gets going once you clip the second bolt. Be sure to have a few good pieces in the PC101 crack as the flake one utilizes for the traverse into Warp Drive Overload will break one of these days. 2 days ago