Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | Tony Bubb, Joseffa Meir,1/3/16 |
Page Views: | 1,005 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on Jan 3, 2016 · Updates |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Heat Wave is a reasonably good pitch with some interesting and gymnastic movement on big holds. Shorter folks might find it harder to get started, thus the ambiguity in grade. Both the initial overhang and the arete are worth the effort.
Step up onto the stepping stone with the belayer downhill and right, to the South. Place a 4” cam and then a red Camalot or nearest equivalent to protect the next several moves (crux). Reach out right to grab the bucket at the lip of the roof (height-dependent), and work your way up onto that and left over the roof (crux, 5.10). High-step to get established on the jug with feet and place another piece of gear.
Work your way up the right side of the arete with occasional gear to the top. A meter or two to the right of the summit of the arete a good belay is available on nuts, cams, and a small tree.
To descend, scramble horizontally to the left (North) to an obvious webbing anchor on a tree, and rap 65' to the ledge below.
Step up onto the stepping stone with the belayer downhill and right, to the South. Place a 4” cam and then a red Camalot or nearest equivalent to protect the next several moves (crux). Reach out right to grab the bucket at the lip of the roof (height-dependent), and work your way up onto that and left over the roof (crux, 5.10). High-step to get established on the jug with feet and place another piece of gear.
Work your way up the right side of the arete with occasional gear to the top. A meter or two to the right of the summit of the arete a good belay is available on nuts, cams, and a small tree.
To descend, scramble horizontally to the left (North) to an obvious webbing anchor on a tree, and rap 65' to the ledge below.
Location
About 20' left of the top pitch of the Rhombohedral there is a 1-meter-tall “stepping stone” just below a notable overhang. The overhang is split by an intermittent crack that goes through it in places and up to the arete to the left above. This is perhaps 7 meters left of the top pitch of Rhombohedral and less that one meter right of the arete at the right side of the top pitch of Wind Tunnel.
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