Type: Trad Fixed Hardware (1)
FA: Jim Erickson and Steve Wunsch, '76
Page Views: 2,049 total · 10/month
Shared By: Matt Robertson on Oct 25, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


70 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

About a hundred feet up the hill from the start of Long John Wall, the West Ridge Trail passes by a dark, left-leaning dihedral partially obscured by a pine tree. Look for a pin about 15 feet up and a heavily chalked, horizontal rail higher on the right wall. Chick on the Side takes this steep dihedral via liebacks and stems. Pro is good when you need it, and unlike many harder Eldo corners you can both protect and climb without facing the dilemma of choice. Unfortunately the fun ends all too soon as the dihedral spits you out onto a ledge after only a few interesting moves.

A fun diversion while it lasts, but not as satisfying as the real thing.

Protection

Small Aliens or nuts for the business, big nuts and/or medium cams for the belay. There is one pin in the dihedral. This is a short pitch with scant but sufficient opportunities for pro.

Photos

George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
I did this climb a few years ago and remember it as being awkward and hard 5.10 (but short). One star is about right. Oct 26, 2001
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10+
The first few moves are crimpy, sharp, and powerful, as well as awkward. The taller you are the better. I thought that the route was fun, but quite hard at it's grade. Once the opening sequence is done, the rest of the route is much easier, so a long or dangerous fall seems unlikely. Nov 2, 2001
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
I also thought this was hard. Power trumps height. I'm 6' 3". I had the reach but not the power to hold myself in while reaching. I had to lunge for the bucket after trying various possibilities. There is plenty of pro above, but it's strenuous hanging out. You can stem out right with your hip in the corner, but it's stressful. You can escape right around the arete at the big bucket (as I did) for a rest, and you can escape again higher up (as I did). Dec 16, 2002
The Nutter  
 
Probably easier if you're shorter like me. Great drop-knee stem stances for contemplating life and pro. May 16, 2004
Shane Zentner
Colorado
 
Shane Zentner   Colorado
 
Bouldery start, as I fell onto my belayer before grabbing the jug. I suppose the taller the better. Fun dihedral! Feb 20, 2005
XOG
XOG  
I tried to figure out a way to statically reach the jug below the pin right at the start and couldn't figure out a way to do it other than to dyno. Apart from the battle with the tree I liked it better to climb out the dihedral the whole way instead of escaping right. Very deceptive as it certainly did not look to me like the opening sequence would be the crux. I really enjoyed this route. If linked with Handcracker would it be the longest continuous climb on the W. Ridge? Apr 17, 2006
I managed to do the opening moves to the first jug statically, but it was awkward and I had to stem out left and under the overlap. I agree with the sharp and crimpy hold business, but I think 10b is a fair grade. This isn't Boulder Canyon. The tree needs to be trimmed at the top! Protection is good and the moves are interesting. Oct 19, 2007
Clint Locks
Boulder
  5.10b
Clint Locks   Boulder
  5.10b
I just want to log a counter point to the earier comment.
I agree that the tree is a bit intrusive, but it's important to remember (especially as more and more people are climbing here) that we are all just visitors in the canyon and have a responsibility to its preservation. And even if we wanted to, we can't just create 'improvements' in a state park on a whim. My point: Just climb around it. We climbers create enough unintentional impact as it is without "trimming" trees because they poke our little behinds once or twice.
Great route, by the way! Having double Aliens (green-red) made it very civilized. Jan 2, 2008
Clint Locks
Boulder
  5.10b
Clint Locks   Boulder
  5.10b
Had another fling with this one today, then continued with Variation to Mail Ridge (Going Postal?) and finished on the exquisite Handcracker Direct. Levin calls it the Mail Ridge Tower Link-up or something. Really fun! Oct 23, 2011
mountainhick
Black Hawk, CO
  5.10c
mountainhick   Black Hawk, CO
  5.10c
Moves entering the corner are cranky and awkward. Take some extra fingers for your left hand for backup! Jun 15, 2015
D. Snyder
Golden, CO
  5.10c
D. Snyder   Golden, CO
  5.10c
I really enjoyed this route, but I wouldn't want it to be the first pitch of the day. The top was pumpier than I recall from years ago when I last did it. The start was of course still pretty burly, but it's a foot position, static reach problem. Nov 24, 2016