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Routes in West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John
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[Redacted] T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Barrel of Monkeys S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Bloke On The Side T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Byway T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Chick on the Side T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Conversions T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X |
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Court Jester T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Crazy Stairs T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Curving Dihedral T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Dandi-Line T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dead Letter Department T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Drug Abuse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Erickson's Finish T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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False Prophet T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Fever, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Going Postal T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Good Ship Venus T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Handcracker Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hanging Chad T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Heatwave T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Horse d'Oeuvre (aka Pony Express P1 to Zip Code aka Pony Code) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Human Factor, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Hyperspace Roundup T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Ignominity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ignore Me T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Iron Horse T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Iron Pony T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Junk Mail T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lightning Bolt Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lost in the Netherlands T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mail Ridge Tower Link-Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mail Ridge Variation Finish T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mail Ridge, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Mesca-Line T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Muscle and Hate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Passing Lane T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Pony Express T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pony Express, Briggs' Variation T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Practice Climb 101 T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Practice Wall T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Prison Sex T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Pygmy Pony T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Quicksand T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Quiet Desperation T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Reckoning T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Rhombohedral T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Rope to Ruin T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Seemingly Innocent T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Side Wall, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Sister Morphine T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Sooberb T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sooberb Lite T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sundial T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sword Of Damocles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unbroken Chain T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Unbroken Prophet T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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variation to Mail Ridge T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Warp Drive Overload S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Who's Holding T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Wind Tunnel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Zeros and Ones T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Zip Code T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches |
| FA: | Ament & Dalke, 1965 |
| Page Views: | 8,700 total · 31/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Mar 1, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This route is a gem! A real classic with a variety of fun moves on each pitch and a fabulous crux. You will have to dangle from some good jams that are not too sharp... but you still may want to tape up for friction, if for no other reason.
The crux roof of this route appears as the big roof just below the second-from-the-left summit on the West Ridge photo, attached below. This summit peak is the next one up from Long John Tower.
To approach Sooberb, go uphill on the West Ridge past the popular Unsaid area, past the Long John Tower and almost too the massive buttress and roof of Practice Climb 101. Look up about 50 feet off of the ground to see a huge left-leaning 'cat claw' flake pointing up and to the left. This is known as "The Sick Flake," but seems rather steady to me. Scramble up from the trail to a good ledge and set a belay below the left side of the Sick Flake.
P1: Climb up to and into the left side [of] the sick flake. Getting protection can be awkward, but is not dangerous. Getting into and out of the cramped moves on or in the flake's left side may in fact be the real crux (5.8+?). After you get past the flake the real fun begins. Move up into an overhanging crack & left-facing dihedral with great holds and solid gear to reach a good ledge above (5.9-?) and belay there, or continue on to pitch 2.
P2: Move out left on the ledge a few feet above a tree and climb up and left over a vertical section onto a slab and follow this up and left, heading for a broken ledge below a massive roof. Belay here and do not continue onward (drag & ledge-fall potential). This pitch is mostly quite easy.
P3: Spot the obvious hand-to-fist crack that splits the huge roof. Climb up this crux section and pull to the lip (5.10c, 3" cam) and through it. Small-handed people will likely finding these jams insecure and the moves will feel considerably more difficult. From above the roof, climb easy, low-angle rock up and slightly left to a good belay ledge.
Updated as per Byron Murray regarding new rap anchors:
To descend, downclimb to the south to a deep V-Slot continue down to the large Juniper Trees. Scramble just North of the large Juniper trees to find a camouflaged double bolt anchor. Rap number 2 is at the top of P1 of Sooberb. This rap will take you to a bench that you can walk off to the North if you angle the rope left (North). (60 meter rope, 2 rappels.)
The crux roof of this route appears as the big roof just below the second-from-the-left summit on the West Ridge photo, attached below. This summit peak is the next one up from Long John Tower.
To approach Sooberb, go uphill on the West Ridge past the popular Unsaid area, past the Long John Tower and almost too the massive buttress and roof of Practice Climb 101. Look up about 50 feet off of the ground to see a huge left-leaning 'cat claw' flake pointing up and to the left. This is known as "The Sick Flake," but seems rather steady to me. Scramble up from the trail to a good ledge and set a belay below the left side of the Sick Flake.
P1: Climb up to and into the left side [of] the sick flake. Getting protection can be awkward, but is not dangerous. Getting into and out of the cramped moves on or in the flake's left side may in fact be the real crux (5.8+?). After you get past the flake the real fun begins. Move up into an overhanging crack & left-facing dihedral with great holds and solid gear to reach a good ledge above (5.9-?) and belay there, or continue on to pitch 2.
P2: Move out left on the ledge a few feet above a tree and climb up and left over a vertical section onto a slab and follow this up and left, heading for a broken ledge below a massive roof. Belay here and do not continue onward (drag & ledge-fall potential). This pitch is mostly quite easy.
P3: Spot the obvious hand-to-fist crack that splits the huge roof. Climb up this crux section and pull to the lip (5.10c, 3" cam) and through it. Small-handed people will likely finding these jams insecure and the moves will feel considerably more difficult. From above the roof, climb easy, low-angle rock up and slightly left to a good belay ledge.
Updated as per Byron Murray regarding new rap anchors:
To descend, downclimb to the south to a deep V-Slot continue down to the large Juniper Trees. Scramble just North of the large Juniper trees to find a camouflaged double bolt anchor. Rap number 2 is at the top of P1 of Sooberb. This rap will take you to a bench that you can walk off to the North if you angle the rope left (North). (60 meter rope, 2 rappels.)
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