Avg: 2.7 from 78 votes
|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Ament & Dalke, 1965|
|Page Views:||7,025 total · 31/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Mar 1, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
For more information visit:
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
The crux roof of this route appears as the big roof just below the second-from-the-left summit on the West Ridge photo, attached below. This summit peak is the next one up from Long John Tower.
To approach Sooberb, go uphill on the West Ridge past the popular Unsaid area, past the Long John Tower and almost too the massive buttress and roof of Practice Climb 101. Look up about 50 feet off of the ground to see a huge left-leaning 'cat claw' flake pointing up and to the left. This is known as "The Sick Flake," but seems rather steady to me. Scramble up from the trail to a good ledge and set a belay below the left side of the Sick Flake.
P1: Climb up to and into the left side [of] the sick flake. Getting protection can be awkward, but is not dangerous. Getting into and out of the cramped moves on or in the flake's left side may in fact be the real crux (5.8+?). After you get past the flake the real fun begins. Move up into an overhanging crack & left-facing dihedral with great holds and solid gear to reach a good ledge above (5.9-?) and belay there, or continue on to pitch 2.
P2: Move out left on the ledge a few feet above a tree and climb up and left over a vertical section onto a slab and follow this up and left, heading for a broken ledge below a massive roof. Belay here and do not continue onward (drag & ledge-fall potential). This pitch is mostly quite easy.
P3: Spot the obvious hand-to-fist crack that splits the huge roof. Climb up this crux section and pull to the lip (5.10c, 3" cam) and through it. Small-handed people will likely finding these jams insecure and the moves will feel considerably more difficult. From above the roof, climb easy, low-angle rock up and slightly left to a good belay ledge.
Updated as per Byron Murray regarding new rap anchors:
To descend, downclimb to the south to a deep V-Slot continue down to the large Juniper Trees. Scramble just North of the large Juniper trees to find a camouflaged double bolt anchor. Rap number 2 is at the top of P1 of Sooberb. This rap will take you to a bench that you can walk off to the North if you angle the rope left (North). (60 meter rope, 2 rappels.)