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Routes in West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John

Barrel of Monkeys S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bloke On The Side T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Bridget the Midget T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Byway T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Chick on the Side T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Conversions T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X
Court Jester T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Crazy Stairs T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Curving Dihedral T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dandi-Line T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dead Letter Department T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Drug Abuse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Erickson's Finish T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
False Prophet T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fever, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Going Postal T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Good Ship Venus T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Handcracker Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hanging Chad T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Heat Wave T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Horse d'Oeuvre (aka Pony Express P1 to Zip Code) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Human Factor, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Hyperspace Roundup T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Ignominity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ignore Me T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Iron Horse T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Knife, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lightning Bolt Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lost in the Netherlands T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mail Ridge Tower Link-Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mail Ridge, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mesca-Line T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Muscle and Hate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Pluto T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pony Express T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pony Express, Briggs' Variation T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Practice Climb 101 T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Practice Wall T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prison Sex T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Pygmy Pony T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Quick Silver T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Quicksand T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Quiet Desperation T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Reckoning T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Rhombohedral T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rope to Ruin T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Seemingly Innocent T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Side Wall, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Sister Morphine T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sooberb T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sooberb Lite T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sundial T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sword Of Damocles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thin Ice T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Think Quickly T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Unbroken Chain T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Warp Drive Overload S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Who's Holding T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Wind Tunnel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Zeros and Ones T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
variation to Mail Ridge T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Harrison, Stuberg, Brooks, 1981
Page Views: 564 total, 3/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 2, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

The first pitch is total crap- a bomb, no good, dangerous, etc... both my partner and I broke holds. The route would be crap except the second pitch (which can be reached from a walk-up ledge) is good, however.

Just prior to reaching the Pony Express area of the West Ridge, quite some way up the hill are the routes Chick On The Side and Bloke On The Side. The easiest way to find these is to hike up to the Pony Express area and then head back downhill past a large ledge (from which Handcracker Direct starts, or the second pitch of Bloke...) until a small overhanging left-facing dihedral is seen. There will be some chalk in the sharp flakey holds of this route, Chick On The Side.

Just down and right of Chick... about 10 to 15 feet is an overhanging pile of pebbles and lichens resembling rock (5.9+). Put on your helmet and check to insure that your belayer has done the same, get a good spotter and then crack the bulge up to a slab. Protect with... shoot, just hope you don't fall, OK? You can get some poor nuts in if you really work at it, but the rock won't be great there either.

You will reach a slab of reasonable rock after 20' or so, and some welcome protection. Although the climbing is easy at this point, wandering up and left on a slab, you should place pro to save your partner and the rope from a slashing-pendulum, should the rock fail on second.

At the top/left corner of this slab, there is a very nice corner system that becomes a nice crack, just a few feet right of the first pitch of Handcracker Direct. This pitch is solid, well protected, fun and 5.8+ - (edit, 5/10/07 = This is only a varriation I have been informed. The origional route is described below in a comment by Steve Levin.)

If you were really smart, you walked up and over the ledge to start as for Handcracker Direct, and skipped the cornflakes first pitch.

You can continue on Handcracker Direct.

Protection

The route is S not for its lack of pro, really, but for its lack of good rock. The first pitch feels like a bowl of cornflakes and protects equally well. Wear a helmet and get a spotter. After pulling the bulge on P1, you can fiddle in some gear, but you only need it to keep your partner from swinging. The second pitch is a great pitch to walk up to and do, it is fun and solid, and it protects with standard gear however you like.

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Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
Sounds like I got P1 wrong. Peter and I both tore holds off of it and thought it was hard. Could someone post a comment with a good description of P1 or mail it to me, and I'll edit the route?

Thanks! Oct 20, 2007
I found the gear and protection to be fine on both pitches. The rock quality could be a bit better, but overall it's fine. Oct 19, 2007
slevin  
Pitch two is the crux. It is to the right of the 5.8 pitch described above. Climb an overhanging shallow corner past a downward-pointed flake, up a broken R-facing corner, then left at a ledge. This pitch protects okay and is worth doing.

The 5.8 2nd pitch is a variation finish to Chick on the Side, also worth doing. May 11, 2007
Mike Munger
Boulder, Colorado
Mike Munger   Boulder, Colorado
I have to disagree with your evaluation of the protection on the first pitch as I found the protection to be adequate and the pitch well protected. May 11, 2007