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Routes in West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John

Barrel of Monkeys S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bloke On The Side T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Bridget the Midget T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Byway T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Chick on the Side T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Conversions T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X
Court Jester T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Crazy Stairs T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Curving Dihedral T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dandi-Line T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dead Letter Department T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Drug Abuse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Erickson's Finish T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
False Prophet T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fever, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Going Postal T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Good Ship Venus T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Handcracker Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hanging Chad T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Heat Wave T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Horse d'Oeuvre (aka Pony Express P1 to Zip Code) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Human Factor, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Hyperspace Roundup T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Ignominity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ignore Me T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Iron Horse T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Knife, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lightning Bolt Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lost in the Netherlands T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mail Ridge Tower Link-Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mail Ridge, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mesca-Line T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Muscle and Hate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Pluto T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pony Express T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pony Express, Briggs' Variation T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Practice Climb 101 T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Practice Wall T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prison Sex T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Pygmy Pony T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Quick Silver T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Quicksand T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Quiet Desperation T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Reckoning T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Rhombohedral T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rope to Ruin T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Seemingly Innocent T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Side Wall, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Sister Morphine T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sooberb T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sooberb Lite T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sundial T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sword Of Damocles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thin Ice T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Think Quickly T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Unbroken Chain T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Warp Drive Overload S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Who's Holding T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Wind Tunnel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Zeros and Ones T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
variation to Mail Ridge T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Dan Hare, Jim and Dan Michael
Page Views: 5,061 total, 26/month
Shared By: James Balasalle on Oct 18, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is the double seams just right of the first pitch of Pony Express. This route is listed as S/VS or something in the Rossiter book, but it's actually very protectable at the cruxes, and you're not in any danger of grounding/ledging out anywhere on the route. It is a nice, if not very sustained line. It is probably easier than the 11+ given by Rossiter, especially if you're tall.

Per Dave Holliday: P2 has 3 bolts.

Protection

A couple of nuts (#4 or 5 stopper goes in at the crux) and a small Friend are sufficient.

Per Dave Holliday: P2 has 3 bolts.
Super stellar first pitch! A short, sequential, and technical crux. If you're comfortable on 10 terrain, I'd say this pitch protects quite well.... Go get it. :) Feb 24, 2017
Rick: this is a two-pitch route; only the first pitch has been described by the person who posted the route. There are indeed three bolts on the second pitch. Apr 27, 2015
Drew Thayer
Denver, CO
  5.11c
Drew Thayer   Denver, CO
  5.11c
This is a fun route, the crux is really interesting, and it protects adequately, not R rated. Solid cams get you to a stance below the crux, where you can place two small nuts (both bomber) that leave ample room for fingers. Then you just have to decide to gun it. The top is unprotected, but it's just the cherry on top after cranking through the crux. Recommended! Apr 26, 2015
WadeM
Golden, Co
 
WadeM   Golden, Co
 
Fun route. The crux is very well protected as I cut twice and fell onto my nut. Runout up top is not trival. If you can make it through the lower crux, you'll be fine on the runout. If in doubt, TR it first. Apr 12, 2014
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
  5.11c PG13
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
  5.11c PG13
You can get a couple #5/6 offsets/RPs before you commit, and they don't take up the finger locks. I have never stopped to placed small cams in the upper finger locks, though. It is probably better to just continue climbing and not fall at that point. Nov 25, 2011
Martin Harris
  5.11b/c PG13
Martin Harris  
  5.11b/c PG13
I just top roped ,but it seams if you plugged gear at the crux, you would loose your finger locks witch were already thin to say the least. But either way, so killer and desperate for me. Nov 25, 2011
Rainbow Weinstock
Boulder, CO
  5.11 PG13
Rainbow Weinstock   Boulder, CO
  5.11 PG13
Beautiful crux. After doing it many times on TR and sussing out all the gear, I found that there are quite a few solid placements for the lead. One piece of note is that after the crux, before the 5.9 slab, you can get a very bomber #0.5 Camalot on the left side of the rest ledge. The piece is placed straight down into the ledge, so it is a bit odd, but it should hold a fall if you blow it getting to the anchors (which really isn't that big of deal after dealing with the rest of the route). Feb 15, 2011
Clint Locks
Boulder
  5.11b R
Clint Locks   Boulder
  5.11b R
Not quite up to "classic" standard, but really fun, my vote is 11b, not much pro (and at points you'd have to choose between pro and plugging up a finger jam--bring small stoppers/RPs), potential ground-fall or ledge-fall in some places. Mar 6, 2010
Adub  
This route is a blast.... However, I don't think it's an 11+.... Dec 7, 2008
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11
Not really crack climbing, not really 11d, and not very R.
Also not that great of a climb. It is fun, but not a classic. The second runout up top is just one committing move onto a high foot. 5.9 or maybe 5.10a, but not as hard as most 5.9+ moves (wink). Feb 2, 2006
Shane DeMars
Boulder, CO
  5.11c
Shane DeMars   Boulder, CO
  5.11c
What a great route! It protected well enough, but may still merit the S. There are some creative placements for small cams but wires seemed to be the ticket at the crux. I got by with just my small nuts (as usual) and no RPs. The short crux made it seem like an easier eldo 11c. Overall a wonderful route well worth leading.S Jun 15, 2004
Joe Collins
  5.11
Joe Collins  
  5.11
One of Eldo's best thin crack pitches. Yep, this is called "Iron Horse" in the guidebook. A little contrived since you can chicken out onto Pony Express in a number of places. I guess you can give it an 'S' for the run to the anchors, but if you get through the crux, it really isn't much to worry about (maybe scarier for shorter climbers?). Nov 10, 2003
I agree with David. The top of this pitch may be [relatively] easy (One 5.9 move) but gear is way below you and pretty thin to boot. [Definitely] should have an S rating. Sep 8, 2003
adam brink
Boulder, CO
 
adam brink   Boulder, CO
 
With RPs and small tri-cams this is a well protected route. To top that, the moves are beautiful and the position excellent. An Eldo classic for sure. Mar 7, 2003
I think this pitch deserves an S. The crux is safely protected, but the last 20' (about 5.9) have no pro unless you detour over to Pony Express. Aug 7, 2002