Type: Trad, 2 pitches Fixed Hardware (3)
FA: Dan Hare, Jim and Dan Michael
Page Views: 5,537 total · 26/month
Shared By: James Balasalle on Oct 18, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

136 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details


This is the double seams just right of the first pitch of Pony Express. This route is listed as S/VS or something in the Rossiter book, but it's actually very protectable at the cruxes, and you're not in any danger of grounding/ledging out anywhere on the route. It is a nice, if not very sustained line. It is probably easier than the 11+ given by Rossiter, especially if you're tall.

Per Dave Holliday: P2 has 3 bolts.


A couple of nuts (#4 or 5 stopper goes in at the crux) and a small Friend are sufficient.

Per Dave Holliday: P2 has 3 bolts.
I think this pitch deserves an S. The crux is safely protected, but the last 20' (about 5.9) have no pro unless you detour over to Pony Express. Aug 7, 2002
Adam Brink
on the road
Adam Brink   on the road
With RPs and small tri-cams this is a well protected route. To top that, the moves are beautiful and the position excellent. An Eldo classic for sure. Mar 7, 2003
I agree with David. The top of this pitch may be [relatively] easy (One 5.9 move) but gear is way below you and pretty thin to boot. [Definitely] should have an S rating. Sep 8, 2003
Joe Collins
Joe Collins  
One of Eldo's best thin crack pitches. Yep, this is called "Iron Horse" in the guidebook. A little contrived since you can chicken out onto Pony Express in a number of places. I guess you can give it an 'S' for the run to the anchors, but if you get through the crux, it really isn't much to worry about (maybe scarier for shorter climbers?). Nov 10, 2003
Shane DeMars
Boulder, CO
Shane DeMars   Boulder, CO
What a great route! It protected well enough, but may still merit the S. There are some creative placements for small cams but wires seemed to be the ticket at the crux. I got by with just my small nuts (as usual) and no RPs. The short crux made it seem like an easier eldo 11c. Overall a wonderful route well worth leading.S Jun 15, 2004
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Not really crack climbing, not really 11d, and not very R.
Also not that great of a climb. It is fun, but not a classic. The second runout up top is just one committing move onto a high foot. 5.9 or maybe 5.10a, but not as hard as most 5.9+ moves (wink). Feb 2, 2006
This route is a blast.... However, I don't think it's an 11+.... Dec 7, 2008
Clint Locks
  5.11b R
Clint Locks   Boulder
  5.11b R
Not quite up to "classic" standard, but really fun, my vote is 11b, not much pro (and at points you'd have to choose between pro and plugging up a finger jam--bring small stoppers/RPs), potential ground-fall or ledge-fall in some places. Mar 6, 2010
Rainbow Weinstock
Boulder, CO
  5.11 PG13
Rainbow Weinstock   Boulder, CO
  5.11 PG13
Beautiful crux. After doing it many times on TR and sussing out all the gear, I found that there are quite a few solid placements for the lead. One piece of note is that after the crux, before the 5.9 slab, you can get a very bomber #0.5 Camalot on the left side of the rest ledge. The piece is placed straight down into the ledge, so it is a bit odd, but it should hold a fall if you blow it getting to the anchors (which really isn't that big of deal after dealing with the rest of the route). Feb 15, 2011
Martin Harris
  5.11b/c PG13
Martin Harris  
  5.11b/c PG13
I just top roped ,but it seams if you plugged gear at the crux, you would loose your finger locks witch were already thin to say the least. But either way, so killer and desperate for me. Nov 25, 2011
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
  5.11c PG13
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
  5.11c PG13
You can get a couple #5/6 offsets/RPs before you commit, and they don't take up the finger locks. I have never stopped to placed small cams in the upper finger locks, though. It is probably better to just continue climbing and not fall at that point. Nov 25, 2011
Golden, Co
WadeM   Golden, Co
Fun route. The crux is very well protected as I cut twice and fell onto my nut. Runout up top is not trival. If you can make it through the lower crux, you'll be fine on the runout. If in doubt, TR it first. Apr 12, 2014
Drew Thayer
Denver, CO
Drew Thayer   Denver, CO
This is a fun route, the crux is really interesting, and it protects adequately, not R rated. Solid cams get you to a stance below the crux, where you can place two small nuts (both bomber) that leave ample room for fingers. Then you just have to decide to gun it. The top is unprotected, but it's just the cherry on top after cranking through the crux. Recommended! Apr 26, 2015
Rick: this is a two-pitch route; only the first pitch has been described by the person who posted the route. There are indeed three bolts on the second pitch. Apr 27, 2015
Super stellar first pitch! A short, sequential, and technical crux. If you're comfortable on 10 terrain, I'd say this pitch protects quite well.... Go get it. :) Feb 24, 2017