Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Erickson, Behrens, 1968
Page Views: 6,990 total · 29/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: COVID-19 Notice & Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Ignominity is a pretty cool route with some steep cruxes and interesting climbing. Start at the right-facing dihedral about 25 feet left of Long John Wall.

P1. Ascend the easy dihedral, and head right around a small roof and tree. Now move back left and up the face (8) to a tree with slings.

P2. Clmb the easy dihedral up to the first crux, a bulge that you can lieback (8+). Now at the next rest stance, place another piece and crank the juggy, but steep crux (9). Pull up to a low angle dihedral, and move up to a big ledge.

P3. Now climb up and left through a wide slot, and make a balancy move to get situated on this sloping ledge. Carefully stand up and get the big jugs, and mantel up to the next section (8). The thin crack above will take a #2 Friend low, and a #3 RP higher. Get your left foot jammed high in the crack to reach the jug that marks the end of difficulties. Now traverse left on a horizontal crack to a nice belay ledge.

Descent: make one more little pitch up 20 feet from this belay, and rap off of a tree with slings. There are two more trees with slings to get you down with a single 50m.

Alternatively, you can rappel off two bolted rap anchors ("the Sooberb rappel") followed by a walk-off to climber's left or a 3rd rap from a slung tree on climber's right.

Protection

Rack up to #3 Camalot. A #4 is optional but recommended and can be useful for some on all the pitches. A single 50m rope works fine.

Photos