Type: Trad, 4 pitches
FA: Larry Dalke, Pat Ament, Wayne Goss, 1964
Page Views: 37,661 total · 166/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Start to the left of a large overhang and just right of a large, right-facing dihedral. Watch out for poison ivy near the start.

P1. Start up the easy ramp, and grovel up left through an awkward slot. Climb a thin slab with marginal small pro, traverse back right, and continue up a crack to a decent ledge (7).

P1 variation 1 (5.8). Start on Break on Through, 20' to the right. Climb the layback corner, go up a ramp, turn the overhanging corner on the left, and traverse left to the first belay on Long John Wall. Recommended.

P1 variation 2 (5.7). Start on Ignominity, 20' to the left. Climb a right-facing corner, pass a bulge, and traverse right to the first belay on Long John Wall.

P2. Ascend the great finger crack (8) to a small roof; continue up to a large ledge, traverse left 15', and belay below a wide slot.

P3. Climb the slot, then continue up the brilliant dihedral to the crux--a finger/hand crack in a corner with excellent stemming. Belay on another large ledge by a tree.

P4. Finish the short and easy (5) dihedral to the summit, or if you're in a hurry, rap off a tree 10' to the left.

P4 variation (5.8). Traverse right about 20' and climb up a corner with some old pins. Then move right, and climb past a wide crack to the top.

You can do both P4 variations if you have the time, since the descent takes you back to the starting ledge for this pitch.

Descent: downclimb a gully to the north of the finish back to the same belay ledge for P3. Do 2 rappels from rings (the tree anchors have been removed) with a 60m rope down to a broken ledge, and then follow the ledge uphill to the trail. Angle the second rappel to the left and watch the ends of the rope. Be VERY careful if you only have a 50m rope, but you can make it with some downclimbing.

Location

Start about 20' left of Break on Through and 20' right of Ignominity.

Protection

Full set of wired nuts, Friends from 0.5-4 (doubles in No. 1 is useful), a few medium hexes, 12" draws, and 3-4 24" runners.

Photos