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Shock Of the New
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British X
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
Routes in West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung
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Aftershock TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a X |
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Atom Smasher S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Baby Sitter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Break on Through T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Break On Through to Chianti T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chianti T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Clear-a-Sill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cruisin' for Burgers T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ein Kluck T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Ghetto Blaster T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Gibbet, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Incarnation S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Knife, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Long John Direct (Original Aid Start) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Long John Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Next to Irving T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Next to Nearly T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pluto T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Quick Silver T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Rictus T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X |
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Rock For Climbing Routes To T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Shock Of the New T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X |
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Strawberry Shortcut T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sunshine Wall T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Thin Ice T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Think Quickly T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Toothsheaf Transfusion T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Unlead, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X |
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Unsaid, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Uranus T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Varieties Of Religious Experience T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Washington Irving T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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White Rabbit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, TR |
| FA: | Sharp/D'Antonio/Lavender, 1981 |
| Page Views: | 1,487 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Aug 9, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This route is near the obvious arete just to the right side of the famous route "The Unsaid." This is located in the "Unsaid Area" of the West Ridge of Eldorado Canyon. Hordes of climbers may be in this vicinity, climbing the more popular lines, including: The Unsaid, Crusing for Burgers, Break on Through, Strawberry Shortcut, Sunshine Wall, and Washington Irving.
After conferring with Chris Archer, Steve Levin, and Bob D'Antonio about this line, I am a little more clear on why it felt hard. As it turns out the route is not meant to be forced directly up the arete the whole way (refer to variation called AFTERSHOCK). Rather, start just to the right of the arete on a flake system, then up it for a short while before crossing it to go SIGNIFICANTLY left of it to another "flake system" (The Unsaid), just below the small roof. This is how it is drawn in Rositer's topo as well. As Chris Archer put it "No, Sharp lead that thing, and he was pretty out there, but he wasn't an idiot."
Which sums up how I feel about the possibility of *ME* leading the arete either as originally done or direct. Even at it's difficulty, it is hard- there is almost nothing positive on it. By way of comparison, The Unlead (11b, S/VS) is both easier and better protected compared to either. Bob D'Antonio (FA party) also stated that he believed that the original grade was a sandbag. I had never seen another climber attempt Shock Of The New, although since the original posting here, both versions of the route have been getting some attention. I've now talked to people on it & now see lots of chalk on both versions)"
After conferring with Chris Archer, Steve Levin, and Bob D'Antonio about this line, I am a little more clear on why it felt hard. As it turns out the route is not meant to be forced directly up the arete the whole way (refer to variation called AFTERSHOCK). Rather, start just to the right of the arete on a flake system, then up it for a short while before crossing it to go SIGNIFICANTLY left of it to another "flake system" (The Unsaid), just below the small roof. This is how it is drawn in Rositer's topo as well. As Chris Archer put it "No, Sharp lead that thing, and he was pretty out there, but he wasn't an idiot."
Which sums up how I feel about the possibility of *ME* leading the arete either as originally done or direct. Even at it's difficulty, it is hard- there is almost nothing positive on it. By way of comparison, The Unlead (11b, S/VS) is both easier and better protected compared to either. Bob D'Antonio (FA party) also stated that he believed that the original grade was a sandbag. I had never seen another climber attempt Shock Of The New, although since the original posting here, both versions of the route have been getting some attention. I've now talked to people on it & now see lots of chalk on both versions)"
Protection
This route is a serious lead for any climber. The gear is for naught and the moves are difficult and insecure. I do not know how anyone could safely lead this route, but it can be toproped with only minor swing-potential. If you attempt to lead this route and are not injured, you will still probably wet the bed every night for a few weeks.
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