Type: Trad, TR
FA: Sharp/D'Antonio/Lavender, 1981
Page Views: 820 total · 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on Aug 9, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route is near the obvious arete just to the right side of the famous route "The Unsaid." This is located in the "Unsaid Area" of the West Ridge of Eldorado Canyon. Hordes of climbers may be in this vicinity, climbing the more popular lines, including: The Unsaid, Crusing for Burgers, Break on Through, Strawberry Shortcut, Sunshine Wall, and Washington Irving.

After conferring with Chris Archer, Steve Levin, and Bob D'Antonio about this line, I am a little more clear on why it felt hard. As it turns out the route is not meant to be forced directly up the arete the whole way (refer to variation called AFTERSHOCK). Rather, start just to the right of the arete on a flake system, then up it for a short while before crossing it to go SIGNIFICANTLY left of it to another "flake system" (The Unsaid), just below the small roof. This is how it is drawn in Rositer's topo as well. As Chris Archer put it "No, Sharp lead that thing, and he was pretty out there, but he wasn't an idiot."

Which sums up how I feel about the possibility of *ME* leading the arete either as originally done or direct. Even at it's difficulty, it is hard- there is almost nothing positive on it. By way of comparison, The Unlead (11b, S/VS) is both easier and better protected compared to either. Bob D'Antonio (FA party) also stated that he believed that the original grade was a sandbag. I had never seen another climber attempt Shock Of The New, although since the original posting here, both versions of the route have been getting some attention. I've now talked to people on it & now see lots of chalk on both versions)"

Protection

This route is a serious lead for any climber. The gear is for naught and the moves are difficult and insecure. I do not know how anyone could safely lead this route, but it can be toproped with only minor swing-potential. If you attempt to lead this route and are not injured, you will still probably wet the bed every night for a few weeks.

Photos