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Elevation: 6,284 ft 1,915 m
GPS: 39.9314, -105.2879
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Leo Paik on Mar 20, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This section might be considered the lower-middle section of the West Ridge. It is arbitrarily defined by the well-known Long John Wall and Verscheidung. The name for this section is abbreviated to help fit screens but lengthened so that you know the margins more clearly.

This section of the ridge appears to contain the second foray onto the ridge, Long John Wall, by Pat Ament, Larry Dalke, & Wayne Goss in 1965.

This area does have excellent stone, with some desert-like varnish in spots; however, still there are loose sections in places. Consider a helmet.

There are classics here including: the surprisingly-popular Washington Irving, 5.6; the blood-pumping Chianti, 5.8+; the longer Long John Wall, 5.8+; popular The Unsaid, 5.9; Handcracker Direct, 5.10a; Break on Through, 5.10a; among others.

Like other areas on The West Ridge, without a rack, your options are limited. Some sport-ish-like routes like the interesting Varieties of a Religious Experience, 5.11b & the stout Atom Smasher, 5.12c, will still require a rack to approach it and to supplement the fixed hardware.

Most routes will use a rappel descent. It's best to figure this out in advance to getting off the ground.

While this is some of the cleaner parts of the West Ridge, you still have to be cognizant of loose rock in some part of this section.

Getting There Suggest change

Approach is dependent upon the depth of the creek, the parking available, and your desires for the day. You can approach this section of the ridge by parking at the Milton Boulder, wade the stream or boulder hop (Aug-ish to May-ish) to the base of the ridge and ascend. Or, you can approach by parking at the E end of the park, cross the bridge, hike on the trail paralleling the creek, and traverse the slippery 3rd class ramp around to the base of the West Ridge. Note, this last traverse is intimidating for small kids and particularly green partners. Then, you hike along the trail at the base of the W face of the West Ridge to your desired route.

33 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 416
Washington Irving
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 10
Knife, The
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 711
Long John Wall
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 25
Sunshine Wall
Trad, TR 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 279
Chianti
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 99
Break On Through to Chianti
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 383
The Unsaid
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 61
Strawberry Shortcut
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 7
Long John Direct (Original Aid S…
Trad 4 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 247
Break on Through
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 70
Cruisin' for Burgers
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
 14
Varieties Of Religious Experience
Trad, TR 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Washington Irving
 416
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Knife, The
 10
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad
Long John Wall
 711
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Sunshine Wall
 25
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR 2 pitches
Chianti
 279
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Break On Through to Chianti
 99
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
The Unsaid
 383
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Strawberry Shortcut
 61
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Long John Direct (Original…
 7
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
Break on Through
 247
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Cruisin' for Burgers
 70
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Varieties Of Religious Expe…
 14
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R Trad, TR 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung »

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