West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung Rock Climbing
|GPS:||39.931, -105.288 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Leo Paik on Mar 20, 2006|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
For more information visit:
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
This section of the ridge appears to contain the second foray onto the ridge, Long John Wall, by Pat Ament, Larry Dalke, & Wayne Goss in 1965.
This area does have excellent stone, with some desert-like varnish in spots; however, still there are loose sections in places. Consider a helmet.
There are classics here including: the surprisingly-popular Washington Irving, 5.6; the blood-pumping Chianti, 5.8+; the longer Long John Wall, 5.8+; popular The Unsaid, 5.9; Handcracker Direct, 5.10a; Break on Through, 5.10a; among others.
Like other areas on The West Ridge, without a rack, your options are limited. Some sport-ish-like routes like the interesting Varieties of a Religious Experience, 5.11b & the stout Atom Smasher, 5.12c, will still require a rack to approach it and to supplement the fixed hardware.
Most routes will use a rappel descent. It's best to figure this out in advance to getting off the ground.
While this is some of the cleaner parts of the West Ridge, you still have to be cognizant of loose rock in some part of this section.
Classic Climbing Routes at West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung
Days w Precip