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West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung Rock Climbing
Routes in West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung
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Aftershock TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a X |
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Atom Smasher S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Baby Sitter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Break on Through T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Break On Through to Chianti T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chianti T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Clear-a-Sill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cruisin' for Burgers T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ein Kluck T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Ghetto Blaster T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Gibbet, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Incarnation S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Knife, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Long John Direct (Original Aid Start) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Long John Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Next to Irving T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Next to Nearly T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pluto T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Quick Silver T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Rictus T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X |
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Rock For Climbing Routes To T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Shock Of the New T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X |
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Strawberry Shortcut T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sunshine Wall T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Thin Ice T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Think Quickly T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Toothsheaf Transfusion T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Unlead, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X |
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Unsaid, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Uranus T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Varieties Of Religious Experience T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Washington Irving T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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White Rabbit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
| Elevation: | 6,284 ft | 1,915 m |
| GPS: |
39.9314, -105.2879 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 90,086 total · 395/month | |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Mar 20, 2006 | |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This section might be considered the lower-middle section of the West Ridge. It is arbitrarily defined by the well-known Long John Wall and Verscheidung. The name for this section is abbreviated to help fit screens but lengthened so that you know the margins more clearly.
This section of the ridge appears to contain the second foray onto the ridge, Long John Wall, by Pat Ament, Larry Dalke, & Wayne Goss in 1965.
This area does have excellent stone, with some desert-like varnish in spots; however, still there are loose sections in places. Consider a helmet.
There are classics here including: the surprisingly-popular Washington Irving, 5.6; the blood-pumping Chianti, 5.8+; the longer Long John Wall, 5.8+; popular The Unsaid, 5.9; Handcracker Direct, 5.10a; Break on Through, 5.10a; among others.
Like other areas on The West Ridge, without a rack, your options are limited. Some sport-ish-like routes like the interesting Varieties of a Religious Experience, 5.11b & the stout Atom Smasher, 5.12c, will still require a rack to approach it and to supplement the fixed hardware.
Most routes will use a rappel descent. It's best to figure this out in advance to getting off the ground.
While this is some of the cleaner parts of the West Ridge, you still have to be cognizant of loose rock in some part of this section.
This section of the ridge appears to contain the second foray onto the ridge, Long John Wall, by Pat Ament, Larry Dalke, & Wayne Goss in 1965.
This area does have excellent stone, with some desert-like varnish in spots; however, still there are loose sections in places. Consider a helmet.
There are classics here including: the surprisingly-popular Washington Irving, 5.6; the blood-pumping Chianti, 5.8+; the longer Long John Wall, 5.8+; popular The Unsaid, 5.9; Handcracker Direct, 5.10a; Break on Through, 5.10a; among others.
Like other areas on The West Ridge, without a rack, your options are limited. Some sport-ish-like routes like the interesting Varieties of a Religious Experience, 5.11b & the stout Atom Smasher, 5.12c, will still require a rack to approach it and to supplement the fixed hardware.
Most routes will use a rappel descent. It's best to figure this out in advance to getting off the ground.
While this is some of the cleaner parts of the West Ridge, you still have to be cognizant of loose rock in some part of this section.
Getting There
Approach is dependent upon the depth of the creek, the parking available, and your desires for the day. You can approach this section of the ridge by parking at the Milton Boulder, wade the stream or boulder hop (Aug-ish to May-ish) to the base of the ridge and ascend. Or, you can approach by parking at the E end of the park, cross the bridge, hike on the trail paralleling the creek, and traverse the slippery 3rd class ramp around to the base of the West Ridge. Note, this last traverse is intimidating for small kids and particularly green partners. Then, you hike along the trail at the base of the W face of the West Ridge to your desired route.
Classic Climbing Routes at West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
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