Avg: 1 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft (30 m)|
|FA:||C. Harrison, S. East, 1980|
|Page Views:||969 total · 4/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Nov 16, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
For more information visit:
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
From the belay tree at the top of the first pitch of Verschneidung or Clear-A-Sill, look up and left 20' to another evergreen. This tree has no fixed slings and is smaller but solid. Either move your belay to this tree, or clip it with an extension runner of at least 4'. Climb up and around to the right up a broken face into a corner system. There are 2 obvious dihedrals, and as the corner system becomes distinct, take the left of these two. This pitch is 30 meters long and leads to a crest in the rock where good gear (a red or pink tricam) can be placed prior to traversing over and down to a solid rappel station on a tree to the south on that same ridge. This is the same rap frequently used from the finish of Verschneidung.
Rap a single 60M rope stretching to the original belay station mentioned, and then to a walk of ledge. A single 70M rope will make the rap to the lower tree/station more comfortable, and then take you all the way to the ground from the tree.
Reduced to simplicity: Climb carefully, distribute your weight carefully, test the holds, and keep both you and your belayer alive. Belaying from the lower tree of Verschneidung (not moving up the belay) will produce a 35+ [meter] pitch and but it might afford more safety to the belayer should the leader [peel] off a large flake.
That all said, my partner and I climber this 30 meter pitch without breaking a single hold or dropping any loose rock. The pitch was fun, and I enjoyed it, but it would not be fun to lead or follow if 5.9 was your limit. How this got put in the book without a S/VS rating is completely beyond me.