Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Tony Bubb, Jason Haas, 3/07
Page Views: 128 total · 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Mar 4, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

A great line with 2 distinct cruxes, one physical and one mental. After a bulging start on thin hands and off-fingers, the line soars up to a clean arete and climbs thin moves above sparse gear.
The bottom looks a little junky, but is mostly cleaned and climbs well, the middle slab is mellow and gorgeous, but runout (5.6?) with no need to venture left into the inset. The final arete is the business, so load up the slashes and go go go. Once established on it, the climbing is easier.
To get down, traverse to climbers left for 50' past the top of Long John Wall and descend as for that route.

Location

The route starts above the top of Ignominity, to the right, this is perhaps 10 meters right of the final pitch of Long John Wall. Just to the right of a lower-angle, chossy inset, there is a bulging crack (1"-2") with some juggy holds nearby. Climb that to a slab and over right past a few brief "slashes" and out to an arete above a horizontal. Thin cams and a 2" cam in the "slashes" protect the entry onto the arete and for some distance up it. A horizontal gives one more opportunity for placing gear before topping out.

Protection

A set of cams 1"-2.5" for the bottom, bulging crack start. A few cams from tiny to 2.5" for the top arete in diagonal slashes and horizontals, and then a bit of a runout.
Stoppers and longer slings will fill out the rack. Stoppers and a 2.5" cam are perfect for belaying up top.

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