Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Routes in West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung
|
Aftershock TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a X |
|
Atom Smasher S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
|
|
Baby Sitter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
|
|
Break on Through T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Break On Through to Chianti T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Chianti T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Clear-a-Sill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Cruisin' for Burgers T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Ein Kluck T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
|
|
Ghetto Blaster T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
|
|
Gibbet, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Incarnation S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
|
|
Knife, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
|
|
Long John Direct (Original Aid Start) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Long John Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Next to Irving T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Next to Nearly T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Pluto T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Quick Silver T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
|
|
Rictus T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X |
|
|
Rock For Climbing Routes To T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Shock Of the New T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X |
|
|
Strawberry Shortcut T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Sunshine Wall T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Thin Ice T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
|
|
Think Quickly T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
|
|
Toothsheaf Transfusion T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
|
|
Unlead, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X |
|
|
Unsaid, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Uranus T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
|
|
Varieties Of Religious Experience T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
|
|
Washington Irving T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
White Rabbit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Tony Bubb, Chris Parks, & Peter Spindloe, 12/2003 |
| Page Views: | 958 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Apr 13, 2006 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Quicksilver is a different finish and a completely new pitch above the first 3 pitches of Quicksand. The 5.9+ rating is an offwidth rating and may seem hard if you are not used to OW climbing.
From the ledge previously above the first 3 pitches of Quicksand, below the death-rap-station, climb up to the right and towards a 4-6" crack though the roof at a right-facing dihedral/overhang. There is a death block teetering here, but it can be easily avoided. It looks to be about ~ 4' x 3' and is perhaps 8 cubic feet (about 2000 lbs). The point is, that it WILL KILL OR MAIM SOMEONE if you knock it off - so don't. Stem up past the flake and to the roof/crack. You can protect the roof at the base with a #3 Camalot or 3.5" piece in a narrow spot (solid gear), and then stem higher and get in a solid 3.5"-4" cam. Protect, then pull up and left to the corner and over the roof (5.9+). During this crux, a #4 Camalot is optional, but the last piece is at your knees anyway. Continue up on easy hand-to-fist cracks protecting with 3" gear, if you saved any (5.5) and up to a ledge and to the top of the ridge, now 20' right of the top of LJW . Belay after slinging a [huge] boulder, or walk the ridge to the "slot" above LJW, and belay as per that climb.
Location
This is a lone pitch high on the West Ridge, approached via Ignominity, Quicksand, or Long John Wall.
Protection
A standard rack as for the approach pitches (like Quicksand ) + a #4 Camalot and maybe a 3.5 if you brought it. The route would be moderately spicy without these pieces.
0 Comments