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Routes in West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung

Aftershock TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a X
Atom Smasher S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Baby Sitter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Break On Through to Chianti T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Break on Through T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chianti T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Clear-a-Sill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cruisin' for Burgers T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ein Kluck T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Ghetto Blaster T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Gibbet, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Incarnation S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Jimmy G T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Long John Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Next to Nearly T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rictus T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Rock For Climbing Routes To T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shock Of the New T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Strawberry Shortcut T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sunshine Wall T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toothsheaf Transfusion T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Unlead, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Unsaid, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Uranus T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Varieties Of Religious Experience T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Washington Irving T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Rabbit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Type: Trad, 100 ft Fixed Hardware (2)
FA: George Meyers, Roger Grette, 1970
Page Views: 9,048 total, 44/month
Shared By: Andrew Wellman on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This one pitch climb is about 50 feet below the Long John Wall route. It follows a thin crack in a dihedral past two small roofs and out onto a face. Rossiter describes it as classic, but that depends on your definition. As opposed to most Eldo routes, which tend to be sustained, this pitch is a one move wonder as far as difficulty is concerned. Still, if you are in the area it is well worth doing and is quite fun.

Addendum: The right finish has a fixed hex at the top.

Protection

Standard trad rack. Pretty thin, no need for any pieces above 1.5 inches. You only really need a set of nuts and about 4 cams from .5 to 2.

Warning

Eds. The anchor may be a rope stretcher to rappel with a short downclimb with a 50m rope to the ledge 30 ft up. Consider 2 ropes or a 60m rope. Also, if you belay from the ground, do not lower with a single rope!
mhagny
 
mhagny  
 
What a great route! One of the best pitches in the park. It keeps you guessing right up to the end. Aug 29, 2017
Andy Nelson
Fort Collins, Colorado
 
Andy Nelson   Fort Collins, Colorado
 
Fun pitch, several moves warrant the 5.9 and overall a great climb. Gear isn't too bad if you take the time to place it. 0.75 is the ticket during the crux move and shouldn't be height-dependent to place. Oh and a fantastic block sticks out for foothold straight outta the gym near the start of the route! May 14, 2017
ssp
ssp  
Has been a favorite of mine from way back. Done numerous times with 'guests' from out of town to get them into Eldo lead climbing. After the first few times, I started doing the 'directtisima' straight up the crack to the roof and continue straight on to the ledge. This line is a hard 5.10 and really gets you going with the footwork.
A good route. Nov 30, 2011
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
Fun route that has probably one of those "height dependent" cruxes. Otherwise you are going to probably have to make a couple of pretty thin moves and run it out a bit above some pretty small pro (small RPs) which is a bit disconcerting, because when out on the face you lose sight of your placements and are well aware of the swing fall and the extra rope you have out. Once you can manage to get in a piece (0.75 cam) into the roof the rest of the route goes safe and is quite reasonable. Keep a cool head, place solid nuts, (small cams kept pulling out for me when tested in the thin crack due to its flairing nature) and all will go well! Jul 6, 2011
Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
Levin's new guidebook gives a rating of 5.10b for staying in the dihedral instead of veering left onto face. That felt about right, protecting with black Alien and tiny wires. Short crux with sketchy feet. Fun. Sep 3, 2010
GMBurns
  5.8+ PG13
GMBurns  
  5.8+ PG13
Not really sure there's any need to go back into the corner once one hits the face on the left. The slab moves on the face are fun and at the grade. The move back to the crack above the roof is also pretty fun at that point, too. Apr 21, 2010
adam brink
Boulder, CO
adam brink   Boulder, CO
Hey Armin, when did you lose it and where was it? If it matches the one I found, you've got your cam back. Jan 2, 2010
Armin Colorado
Boulder, CO
 
Armin Colorado   Boulder, CO
 
I lost my "grey ghost" (grey metolius TCU) on this climb near the top right below the anchor. 6 pack offer to get it back. Thanks. Jan 1, 2010
Andrew McLean
Colorado
 
Andrew McLean   Colorado
 
Cool route. Good intro 5.9 Eldo. lead because the hard moves are few and gear great. There are good small nuts in the crack before you go left onto the face. One of which I fell onto trying to pull into the crack above the corner. I did not think the fall was unpleasant aside from the 10 minutes it took the clean the stuck piece :) Nov 6, 2009
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  5.9
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  5.9
Fun route. Staying right in the dihedral and not moving left to the jugs on the face makes it an interesting challenge, solid .10 I would say. Pulling the roof from this position is fun Mar 9, 2008
D. Shaw
  5.9 PG13
D. Shaw  
  5.9 PG13
Tricky, and I agree with Rossiter, classic "Eldo" climbing. There is more than one fun move, so certainly don't skip this pitch. Gear in thin seam is small, before stepping left into pockets. Then stand up in pockets, if you are tall reach right and you can get an excellent nut at bottom of the crack. If you can't reach back to the bottom of the crack to place the gear it is actually going to be a fairly run-out move. Aug 7, 2007
jay baichi
  5.9
jay baichi  
  5.9
Loads of fun! Sucked up the small Aliens! Jul 5, 2007
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
This is a fun pitch, although short. It took me some time to figure out the crux moves, even though I'm sure I've done it before.

I puzzled over the "Ron Olsen Variation" at the top, a standard Eldo corner with no significant handholds. This dihedral can be made easy by stepping left and then back right into it! Jun 6, 2005
Jason Shatek  
 
This is a good all around route. For the crux, I first put in a orange RP (last piece before the roof). Then I was able to step high and side pull the hueco and then put a orange Alien into the roof. I then swung out onto the face and did the mantle move to the 5.9 part of the crux. I then placed a blue alien in the dihedral a couple of feet above the orange Alien. The next 9 move wasn't too bad, I just steped up and side pulled a flake and that was high enough to grab a bomber corner handhold. FYI.... Someone mentions above that you can sling a corner before the crux to keep you from zippering should you fall. I looked for a spot to sling and couldn't find anything. Dec 20, 2004
Jeremy
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Jeremy   Boulder, CO
  5.9
This was a great route! I led it pulling out on the face and it seemed that the holds pulling the roof would be better if you stay in the crack. I tr'ed it and that was definitely the case. Staying in the crack and using the huecos for hands and a left foot was fun and maybe 10a. Aug 30, 2004
Matt Chan
Boulder
  5.9-
Matt Chan   Boulder
  5.9-
I second what Holly mentioned about fall potential on some thin wires prior to placing your .75 cam in the roof - could be painful. I preclipped my cam and fired it in ASAP from the potholes. Also, threading the hole at the bottom of the RF corner with a sling eliminates the possibility of zippering your stoppers in the case of a fall prior to getting the cam in the roof. Two stars and a good lead for breaking into 9's. Aug 23, 2004
Holly Barnard
  5.9-
Holly Barnard  
  5.9-
This was my first Eldo 5.9 lead and I didn't think it was as hard as others I have followed or lead since then in the canyon. I'm 5'6" and this climb was definitely more than a one move wonder. I'd agree with 3 or 4 moves that by the end of them you could be looking at an unpleasant ride if you fell before getting back into the crack. In hindsight, I'd advise folks to be pretty comfortable at 8+ before leading this. Falling from the face mid-crux would not be good. Place gear as high as you can in the dihedral before moving out onto the face. Jul 25, 2004
A quality pitch of thought-provoking little moves. From mantling on the face to little fingers...a very enjoyable lead and agreed with the rating of 5.9. Have fun! Sep 29, 2003
Some of these big holds are just out of reach for shorter folks like me. I found it to be reachy and three or so hard moves. Brilliant climbing reminicient of Castle Hill in New Zealand. 5.9 felt right on to me. Jun 20, 2003
Shane Zentner
Colorado
Shane Zentner   Colorado
A three and a half move wonder for my wiry self. A bit balancy when you're on the face, other than that pretty straight forward. Stoppers and a few small cams protects The Unsaid. Jan 22, 2003
Ernie Port
Boulder, Colorado
Ernie Port   Boulder, Colorado
I led it today and thought it was way cool. [Balancy] move up on the top of the face using left hand fingertip undercling was unique. Protecting that move is not too bad for taller climbers (6' range) but my shorter partner (5'6") can't reach the corner of the roof to place the cam. I'd agree it's a classic a say it's a three move wonder. Sep 1, 2002
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
 
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
 
This is one of my favorite climbs on the West Ridge. A better finish continues straight up a right-facing corner at the top instead of heading left to the two-bolt toprope anchor. Fun thin face and stemming moves take you to the rotten ledge. You can belay from the top using a small tree as an anchor. After you bring your second up, traverse left to the big tree and rappel down Washington Irving. 60m rope recommended for the rappel. Aug 9, 2002
Going straight up the dihedral, instead of moving left, is mid-5.10 or so. There are a couple of delicate stem moves, with not much for your feet, until you can reach up to where the crack opens up enough to admit fingers again. From there, you can reach up to the roof. The move over the roof from this position is fun. May 22, 2002
rob.calm
Loveland, Colorado
rob.calm   Loveland, Colorado
I found the crux piece of protection to be a .75 Camalot placed low in the roof while leaning to the right off the huecos on the left wall. This protects moving up on the wall and re-entering the crack. How hard is the route if one stays in the crack all the way and avoids the left wall? May 22, 2002
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
 
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
 
Well, I think this is a 3-move wonder, that I did for the third time today. Pulling out of the corner, making a neat move up the face, and then pulling back into the crack above the roof all feel equally difficult and thought-provoking. Of course, you could also just go straight up the corner without using the face, which is strenuous but quite doable.

A 60 meter rope is perfect for the rappel to the tree directly below the route, with a 50 you'll probably have to downclimb a bit. Apr 21, 2002
This route is certainly not very difficult for the grade; however, the gear is fairly thin in places. The whole pitch really only needs about 3 or 4 nuts or tiny cams. Also, most of the climb really depends on the face-holds to the right of the crack. Go up a few moves, then step left. Apr 8, 2002
Brice W  
This is a fun route, but I agree about it being a one or two move wonder. It doesn't feel like a 5.9 if you are tall, either (I'm 6'4"). On the thin crack before traversing out on the face, I was only able to get in some quite small nuts, #3s and #4s BD. Jul 31, 2001