Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m) Fixed Hardware (2)
FA: George Meyers, Roger Grette, 1970
Page Views: 10,932 total · 46/month
Shared By: Andrew Wellman on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

This one pitch climb is about 50 feet below the Long John Wall route. It follows a thin crack in a dihedral past two small roofs and out onto a face. Rossiter describes it as classic, but that depends on your definition. As opposed to most Eldo routes, which tend to be sustained, this pitch is a one move wonder as far as difficulty is concerned. Still, if you are in the area it is well worth doing and is quite fun.

Addendum: The right finish has a fixed hex at the top.

Protection

Standard trad rack. Pretty thin, no need for any pieces above 1.5 inches. You only really need a set of nuts and about 4 cams from .5 to 2.

Warning

Eds. The anchor may be a rope stretcher to rappel with a short downclimb with a 50m rope to the ledge 30 ft up. Consider 2 ropes or a 60m rope. Also, if you belay from the ground, do not lower with a single rope!

Photos