Type: Trad, TR
FA: M. Brooks, J. Foster, 1982
Page Views: 386 total · 2/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 22, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: COVID-19 Notice & Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Follow the directions as for White Rabbit and take the right-most, right facing dihedral, as opposed to the left-facing one. This route is located just L of Verschneidung. If you enjoy the head game, this route is for you. The moves actually are fun, but potentially dangerous.

The crux move is a reachy mantle/flag from poor flakes to and though an overhang to pinch a horizontal arete-like feature above - matching on the sloping pinch and pulling up to a toe-hook is exciting above crappy small gear. It felt like solid 5.10 to me. The *very tall* folks might find it easier than I did.

Perhaps some holds broke between when the route was rated and now, which could have produced some spectacular falls.

Protection

This is a death route. The Rossiter guidebook rated it 5.9 (no S in the Boulder Climbs South) and the route was described as S in the text. The route is VS. About 30' off of the big ledge you will do a balancey mover on poor rock with bad or no protection. Then you will place a red or brown tricam behind a bad flake and do some more 5.8+ moves to gain the dihedral. There is a right-hand traverse that has terrible rock- thus you can not use just any hold. The crux pro was a 2" cam behind a poor flake, 12' below and to the left of the crux on a long sling, then a few brass nuts in poor rock, 5' down, and a #3 BD stopper just below the move.

There is a lot of very poor rock and many runouts on the route, some potentially lethal.

You can traverse from the top of Verschneidung (5.7 sewn-up) to the rap tree above Ghetto Blaster and TR the crux pitch from there if so desired.

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