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Routes in West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung

Aftershock TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a X
Atom Smasher S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Baby Sitter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Break On Through to Chianti T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Break on Through T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chianti T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Clear-a-Sill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cruisin' for Burgers T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ein Kluck T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Ghetto Blaster T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Gibbet, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Incarnation S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Jimmy G T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Long John Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Next to Nearly T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rictus T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Rock For Climbing Routes To T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shock Of the New T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Strawberry Shortcut T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sunshine Wall T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toothsheaf Transfusion T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Unlead, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Unsaid, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Uranus T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Varieties Of Religious Experience T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Washington Irving T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Rabbit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Type: Trad, TR
FA: M. Brooks, J. Foster, 1982
Page Views: 90 total, 0/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 22, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Follow the directions as for White Rabbit and take the right-most, right facing dihedral, as opposed to the left-facing one. This route is located just L of Verschneidung. If you enjoy the head game, this route is for you. The moves actually are fun, but potentially dangerous.

The crux move is a reachy mantle/flag from poor flakes to and though an overhang to pinch a horizontal arete-like feature above - matching on the sloping pinch and pulling up to a toe-hook is exciting above crappy small gear. It felt like solid 5.10 to me. The *very tall* folks might find it easier than I did.

Perhaps some holds broke between when the route was rated and now, which could have produced some spectacular falls.

Protection

This is a death route. The Rossiter guidebook rated it 5.9 (no S in the Boulder Climbs South) and the route was described as S in the text. The route is VS. About 30' off of the big ledge you will do a balancey mover on poor rock with bad or no protection. Then you will place a red or brown tricam behind a bad flake and do some more 5.8+ moves to gain the dihedral. There is a right-hand traverse that has terrible rock- thus you can not use just any hold. The crux pro was a 2" cam behind a poor flake, 12' below and to the left of the crux on a long sling, then a few brass nuts in poor rock, 5' down, and a #3 BD stopper just below the move.

There is a lot of very poor rock and many runouts on the route, some potentially lethal.

You can traverse from the top of Verschneidung (5.7 sewn-up) to the rap tree above Ghetto Blaster and TR the crux pitch from there if so desired.

Photos

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tooTALLtim
Boulder, CO
  5.9 X
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
  5.9 X
Got on this without reading about it (just looked up, saw it was ".9" in the Rossiter book without reading the description, and went for it)

Shitty rock, not very good moves (because I was afraid of breaking holds), and a huge runout to the lip below the crux. I was able to get two decent cams on either side of the lip (a #1 on the left, and a 0.75 on the right). This is assuming the rock held.

This felt 5.9 probably because I'm 6'6", and was able to reach the better holds at the top of the crux.

I would not lead this climb again, nor recommend it to anyone. Quite the mindf*ck. Apr 2, 2008