Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Ghetto Blaster
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British X
Avg: 0.8 from 4
votes
Routes in West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung
|
Aftershock TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a X |
|
|
Atom Smasher S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
|
|
Baby Sitter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
|
|
Break on Through T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Break On Through to Chianti T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Chianti T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Clear-a-Sill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Cruisin' for Burgers T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Ein Kluck T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
|
|
Ghetto Blaster T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
|
|
Gibbet, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Incarnation S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
|
|
Knife, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
|
|
Long John Direct (Original Aid Start) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Long John Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Next to Irving T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Next to Nearly T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Pluto T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Quick Silver T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
|
|
Rictus T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X |
|
|
Rock For Climbing Routes To T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Shock Of the New T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X |
|
|
Strawberry Shortcut T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Sunshine Wall T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Thin Ice T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
|
|
Think Quickly T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
|
|
Toothsheaf Transfusion T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
|
|
Unlead, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X |
|
|
Unsaid, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Uranus T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
|
|
Varieties Of Religious Experience T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
|
|
Washington Irving T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
White Rabbit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
| Type: | Trad, TR |
| GPS: | 39.9314, -105.2879 |
| FA: | M. Brooks, J. Foster, 1982 |
| Page Views: | 906 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Nov 22, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Follow the directions as for White Rabbit and take the right-most, right facing dihedral, as opposed to the left-facing one. This route is located just L of Verschneidung. If you enjoy the head game, this route is for you. The moves actually are fun, but potentially dangerous.
The crux move is a reachy mantle/flag from poor flakes to and though an overhang to pinch a horizontal arete-like feature above - matching on the sloping pinch and pulling up to a toe-hook is exciting above crappy small gear. It felt like solid 5.10 to me. The *very tall* folks might find it easier than I did.
Perhaps some holds broke between when the route was rated and now, which could have produced some spectacular falls.
Protection
This is a death route. The Rossiter guidebook rated it 5.9 (no S in the Boulder Climbs South) and the route was described as S in the text. The route is VS. About 30' off of the big ledge you will do a balancey mover on poor rock with bad or no protection. Then you will place a red or brown tricam behind a bad flake and do some more 5.8+ moves to gain the dihedral. There is a right-hand traverse that has terrible rock- thus you can not use just any hold. The crux pro was a 2" cam behind a poor flake, 12' below and to the left of the crux on a long sling, then a few brass nuts in poor rock, 5' down, and a #3 BD stopper just below the move.
There is a lot of very poor rock and many runouts on the route, some potentially lethal.
You can traverse from the top of Verschneidung (5.7 sewn-up) to the rap tree above Ghetto Blaster and TR the crux pitch from there if so desired.
1 Comment