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Routes in West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung
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Aftershock TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a X |
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Atom Smasher S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Baby Sitter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Break on Through T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Break On Through to Chianti T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chianti T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Clear-a-Sill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cruisin' for Burgers T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ein Kluck T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Ghetto Blaster T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Gibbet, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Incarnation S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Knife, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Long John Direct (Original Aid Start) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Long John Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Next to Irving T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Next to Nearly T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pluto T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Quick Silver T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Rictus T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X |
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Rock For Climbing Routes To T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Shock Of the New T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X |
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Strawberry Shortcut T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sunshine Wall T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Thin Ice T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Think Quickly T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Toothsheaf Transfusion T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Unlead, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X |
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Unsaid, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Uranus T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Varieties Of Religious Experience T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Washington Irving T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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White Rabbit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | None really FFA: Rolando Garibotti |
| Page Views: | 1,542 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Dougald MacDonald on Mar 20, 2004 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
For now, this is essentially a toprope, and as such it may well have been done previously. I TR'd it with Ridge Dorsey in November 2002 and then led it while placing gear that December but I took one panic hang after the crux. I've pretty much given up on leading it cleanly. I'm posting it for anyone who wants to try headpointing it, or just to make people more aware of a terrific toprope.
This is the blank-looking face and prow between the first pitches of Break on Through and Chianti. From the top of the pointy flake on the rotten band below the face, step onto the face, protect low and left, and balance up to a short, thin, right-flacing flake. Fill this with gear (5 pieces can be placed in all!), then do the crux face moves straight up. From a good handhold, move right a few feet to a stance on the prow, place gear at your feet (very balancey), then do 5.9 moves to the lip of the first wall. Place more gear in the bottoming crack in front of your face, being careful not to block the crucial pebble hold, and then do a 5.10 mantel up and left. (On my only lead attempt, I hung briefly from the wire before this mantle.) Easier climbing (and pro) leads to the second headwall. Angle up and left toward a crack and tiny tree at the top of this wall, about six feet right of Break on Through -- quite scary if you don't cheat and protect in Break on Through. A fun crank past the tree with good pro gains the top.
This is definitely VS for the onsight, but with knowledge of the gear it is surprisingly well-protected -- perhaps S+. I bounce-tested each of the pieces protecting the crux after I placed them on lead, and I had previously tested the higher pieces -- the trick is placing them just right while on the lead. Ask me if you want the piece-by-piece beta. Or, this could be a relatively safe (S) lead with pre-placed pro. Or, simply toprope it. That's what I'm going to do from now on....
This is the blank-looking face and prow between the first pitches of Break on Through and Chianti. From the top of the pointy flake on the rotten band below the face, step onto the face, protect low and left, and balance up to a short, thin, right-flacing flake. Fill this with gear (5 pieces can be placed in all!), then do the crux face moves straight up. From a good handhold, move right a few feet to a stance on the prow, place gear at your feet (very balancey), then do 5.9 moves to the lip of the first wall. Place more gear in the bottoming crack in front of your face, being careful not to block the crucial pebble hold, and then do a 5.10 mantel up and left. (On my only lead attempt, I hung briefly from the wire before this mantle.) Easier climbing (and pro) leads to the second headwall. Angle up and left toward a crack and tiny tree at the top of this wall, about six feet right of Break on Through -- quite scary if you don't cheat and protect in Break on Through. A fun crank past the tree with good pro gains the top.
This is definitely VS for the onsight, but with knowledge of the gear it is surprisingly well-protected -- perhaps S+. I bounce-tested each of the pieces protecting the crux after I placed them on lead, and I had previously tested the higher pieces -- the trick is placing them just right while on the lead. Ask me if you want the piece-by-piece beta. Or, this could be a relatively safe (S) lead with pre-placed pro. Or, simply toprope it. That's what I'm going to do from now on....
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