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Routes in West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung

Aftershock TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a X
Atom Smasher S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Baby Sitter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Break On Through to Chianti T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Break on Through T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chianti T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Clear-a-Sill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cruisin' for Burgers T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ein Kluck T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Ghetto Blaster T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Gibbet, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Incarnation S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Jimmy G T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Long John Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Next to Nearly T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rictus T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Rock For Climbing Routes To T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shock Of the New T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Strawberry Shortcut T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sunshine Wall T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toothsheaf Transfusion T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Unlead, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Unsaid, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Uranus T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Varieties Of Religious Experience T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Washington Irving T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Rabbit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim Erickson, John Behrens, 1968 (Break on Through)
Page Views: 1,621 total, 21/month
Shared By: Nick Wilder on Sep 22, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Mixing the amazing first pitch of Break on Through with the second pitch of Chianti makes an awesome 5.8+ link while avoiding the 10c difficulties of Break on Through.

Though just a linkup of popular climbs, this is so good it is worthy of a separate entry, and provides a good opportunity to get on Break on Through for those not up for the second pitch.

See each route for the pitch descriptions. This is suitable for 5.8/9 leaders, the pro is great, and there are many rests between short (but very steep) cruxes.

Protection

Many pieces, up to #4 Camalot for P1, which is very long. P2 is short you will have plenty of gear after P1.

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Wes Martin
Denver, Colorado
Wes Martin   Denver, Colorado
To the couple who recommended this climb when we were scoping Long John and the cute ol fluffy dog on 12/3/17.... It appears you left a white helmet at the base of the climb. I'd be happy to get it back to you, or whoever's it is - send me a message. 7 days ago
farkas.time
Albuquerque, NM
  5.8+
farkas.time   Albuquerque, NM
  5.8+
A great climb. I like the first pitch of BOT better than that of Chianti. Good pro the whole way. There are rap rings from the tree at the top of P1, but our 60m rope didn't make it to the ledge -- best just finish it anyway! Mar 26, 2012
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
Your can link both pitches from the ground in a 190ft lead. Watch your gear and slings for rope drag, though. Nov 13, 2011