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Routes in West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung

Aftershock TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a X
Atom Smasher S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Baby Sitter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Break On Through to Chianti T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Break on Through T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chianti T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Clear-a-Sill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cruisin' for Burgers T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ein Kluck T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Ghetto Blaster T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Gibbet, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Incarnation S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Long John Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Next to Nearly T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rictus T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Rock For Climbing Routes To T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Shock Of the New T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Strawberry Shortcut T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sunshine Wall T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toothsheaf Transfusion T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Unlead, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Unsaid, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Uranus T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Varieties Of Religious Experience T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Washington Irving T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Rabbit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, TR
FA: D Hersey, K. Ainsworth, 1987
Page Views: 639 total · 3/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 21, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route is difficult and cruxy, but fun! Leading this route would demand confidence, as the body position at the crux moves would leave a falling leader extremely vulnerable to head or spinal injuries. I did this route on toprope, looking for protection opportunity for a future red-point along the way. After seeing the lack of protection and taking a few falls at the crux, I decided not to lead the pitch at all.

To approach Toothsheaf Transfusion, go uphill on the West Ridge just past the V-slot of Verschneidung. Climb Clear-a-Sill or Verschneidung to the strange looking pine tree. From there, either climb Toothsheaf (wandering up the overhanging face above, between the V-slot and Ghetto Blaster/White Rabbit (the dihedrals to the left) or climb one of the other routes to set a toprope.

The crux of this route comes after a section of large moves between large holds and consists of moving to the right from slopers under an overhang, onto slopers above the overhang. A fall from this position would likely result in a significant injury. Continue up and left to the rap above Ghetto Blaster.

To descend, rap Ghetto Blaster to the tree, then from the tree down to the first ledge, then scramble off.

Protection

The protection did not seem not very good and there are ledges that could cause serious injury. This pitch is debatably VS. Take an assortment of wires, cams, and tricams.

Better yet, if you don't climb 5.11X, toprope it from the anchors above Ghetto Blaster. If you don't climb 5.10X either, then climb Vershniedung to reach the summit and from there scramble to the anchor above Ghetto Blaster to hang your TR.

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