Long John Direct (Original Aid Start)
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches |
FA: | Bob Candelaria FFA 1973 |
Page Views: | 418 total · 24/month |
Shared By: | Stephen Felker on Aug 22, 2019 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This is the direct start to Long John Wall. It is more aesthetic and much better protected than the P1 slot/runout traverse option to the left.
Start as for Long John Wall. At the roof on pitch 1, do not go left into the slot. Instead, go past underclings, and move straight up into the left-facing corner. Continue to the top of Long John Wall.
Start as for Long John Wall. At the roof on pitch 1, do not go left into the slot. Instead, go past underclings, and move straight up into the left-facing corner. Continue to the top of Long John Wall.
Location
Pass a couple of obvious staging areas, and you will see Long John Wall Tower standing tall over the center of West Ridge. Long John Wall starts below this prominence, at a low angle bushy crack leading to big flakes and a weakness left of a steep roof.
Photos
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