Next to Nearly

The entire line is no harder than 5.7 except for the last 10 feet where, IMO, the route becomes a bit contrived, being within arms reach of Washington Irving. Feb 10, 2002

I thought the entire line was well worth doing. Maybe two stars. The first part of the crack may be just an easy 5.7, but good solid holds. The crux, at a solid 5.9, has a great set of moves to figure out, while at the same time only having RPs or tiny stoppers for pro at the crux (fun mental game if you climb at that level). DON'T let yourself reach over to Washington Irving and grab the crack... try to stay directly on the crack and arete and you will enjoy this short thrill. Jun 8, 2002

Protected the crux with two RPs. The climbing is straightforward until the crux (near the top) where the holds become interesting. I stemmed out with my right foot and found a small 'nook' in the rock and smeared/edged to the top. Fun climb. Feb 20, 2003

My first thought was "this is a 5.9?" The first 80% of the route is no harder than 5.5 (Eldo ratings) and would make a great beginner lead. Loads of protection and an obvious route. I assume the last few moves are up the junction between the Washington Irving stair-step bulges and the smoother, featureless bulge left of the Unsaid anchors. A beginner leader could easily reach over to WI and finish there. May 13, 2006

A variation of this route can be TR'd from the Washington Irving anchor. Follow the crack, and then go left before the final bulge on WI, finishing on WI. The new Levin book calls it "Next to Irving" and rates it 5.6. You miss the crux of this route, but it's still a fun route and good mileage for a beginner. Mar 31, 2018