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Routes in West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung

Aftershock TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a X
Atom Smasher S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Baby Sitter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Break On Through to Chianti T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Break on Through T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chianti T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Clear-a-Sill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cruisin' for Burgers T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ein Kluck T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Ghetto Blaster T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Gibbet, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Incarnation S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Jimmy G T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Long John Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Next to Nearly T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rictus T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Rock For Climbing Routes To T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shock Of the New T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Strawberry Shortcut T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sunshine Wall T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toothsheaf Transfusion T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Unlead, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Unsaid, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Uranus T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Varieties Of Religious Experience T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Washington Irving T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Rabbit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,242 total, 6/month
Shared By: Aaron Reite on Feb 9, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Climb the only crack between The Unsaid & Washington Irving.

Protection

Standard rack.

Warning

Eds. The anchor may be a rope stretcher to rappel with a short downclimb with a 50m rope to the ledge 30 ft up. Consider 2 ropes or a 60m rope. Also, if you belay from the ground, do not lower with a single rope!

Photos

Charles Danforth
L'ville, CO
 
Charles Danforth   L'ville, CO
 
My first thought was "this is a 5.9?" The first 80% of the route is no harder than 5.5 (Eldo ratings) and would make a great beginner lead. Loads of protection and an obvious route. I assume the last few moves are up the junction between the Washington Irving stair-step bulges and the smoother, featureless bulge left of the Unsaid anchors. A beginner leader could easily reach over to WI and finish there. May 13, 2006
Shane Zentner
Colorado
Shane Zentner   Colorado
Protected the crux with two RPs. The climbing is straightforward until the crux (near the top) where the holds become interesting. I stemmed out with my right foot and found a small 'nook' in the rock and smeared/edged to the top. Fun climb. Feb 20, 2003
I thought the entire line was well worth doing. Maybe two stars. The first part of the crack may be just an easy 5.7, but good solid holds. The crux, at a solid 5.9, has a great set of moves to figure out, while at the same time only having RPs or tiny stoppers for pro at the crux (fun mental game if you climb at that level). DON'T let yourself reach over to Washington Irving and grab the crack... try to stay directly on the crack and arete and you will enjoy this short thrill. Jun 8, 2002
Aaron Reite  
 
The entire line is no harder than 5.7 except for the last 10 feet where, IMO, the route becomes a bit contrived, being within arms reach of Washington Irving. Feb 10, 2002