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Routes in West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung

Aftershock TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a X
Atom Smasher S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Baby Sitter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Break On Through to Chianti T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Break on Through T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chianti T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Clear-a-Sill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cruisin' for Burgers T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ein Kluck T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Ghetto Blaster T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Gibbet, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Incarnation S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Long John Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Next to Nearly T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rictus T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Rock For Climbing Routes To T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Shock Of the New T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Strawberry Shortcut T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sunshine Wall T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toothsheaf Transfusion T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Unlead, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Unsaid, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Uranus T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Varieties Of Religious Experience T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Washington Irving T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Rabbit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: chipmunks probably
Page Views: 100 total · 1/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on May 29, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is a little pitch that was kind of fun. If you've done most of the classic moderates, can tolerate a bit of runout, you might like this one. Best to choose a dry day, since the lichen still absorbs water.

Okay, should you decide to try this line go up and right into the scooped out area. Note Tim, that low horizontal crack on the right might hold a green Alien, but it fell out on me. Move up to the left to another horizontal. Opposed #4 BD wires & a blue Alien fit. Move up to the next horizontal crack and slot some iffy wires and a good green Alien. Do a lieback/high step and get your feet established above the crack. Now, from here you can go right or up to the twig. Once there, you can get an orange Alien or two and a #3.5 Camalot in easy huecos and cruise to the tree above.

Downclimb up and left as for Washington Irving.

Sorry, old age & I've forgotten a camera at least twice.

Location

From the P1 start of Verscheidung, move about 10 feet left. Aim for the tree on the ledge above.

Protection

Blue, green, orange Aliens, #4-8 BD wires, #3.5 Camalot.

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