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Routes in West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung

Aftershock TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a X
Atom Smasher S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Baby Sitter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Break On Through to Chianti T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Break on Through T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chianti T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Clear-a-Sill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cruisin' for Burgers T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ein Kluck T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Ghetto Blaster T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Gibbet, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Incarnation S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Jimmy G T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Long John Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Next to Nearly T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rictus T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Rock For Climbing Routes To T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shock Of the New T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Strawberry Shortcut T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sunshine Wall T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toothsheaf Transfusion T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Unlead, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Unsaid, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Uranus T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Varieties Of Religious Experience T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Washington Irving T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Rabbit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Type: TR, 100 ft
FA: unknown, likely only on TR
Page Views: 873 total, 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on Aug 3, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route is a variation of the route "Shock of the New" which climbs the obvious arete just to the right side of the famous route "The Unsaid." This is located in the "Unsaid Area" of the West Ridge of Eldorado Canyon. The new route goes "super direct" up the arete, not deviating from the obvious prow. The bottom is clean, but the upper part still has some fine lichen on it.

The original line, from which this name was derived is not quite as obvious or hard and started on the flake system to the right, eventually crossing over to the left and climbing there. To do Aftershock, climb the direct arete until the broken ledge is reached, up above Cruisin' For Burgers and The Unsaid. This is the arete about 8 feet to the climber's right, in the front page picture (attached below). The lower part of the arete is obscured by a tree in the photo. This variation climbs a little over 1/2 of its length on different rock than the original route.

The moves are good, and perhaps a little reachy. A partner of mine who had just lead several 11's and a 12, then made the comment that she could not even perceive a way to do the moves (height may be a factor). I am no giant (I'm 5'10" but have long arms) and I found the moves to be spectacular, but difficult and insecure.

If you attempt to lead this route and are not injured, you will still probably wet the bed every night for a few weeks. TR it from the gear above The Unsaid. The TR from The Unsaid anchors could produce a [violent] swing if you were to fall from the top of Aftershock, but if you executed the moves down low, I seriously doubt you will be falling up high.

Hordes of climbers may be in this vicinity, climbing the more popular lines, including: Unsaid, Cruising for Burgers, Break on Through, Strawberry Shortcut, Sunshine Wall, and Washington Irving. I have never seen another climber attempt Aftershock or Shock Of The New.

Protection

This route would be a serious lead for any climber. The gear is nearly nonexistent and the moves are difficult and insecure. I do not know how one could safely lead this route, but it can be toproped with only minor swing-potential. I TR'd it and I seriously recommend that anyone else do the same, although it might make a good headpoint.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
12a might be right, I don't know because I am not solid enough at that level to tell the difference with any authority. A few guys working it were suggesting 12c. It felt harder than Fuzzy Dice (12a), Liliburlero (12a), or Little Fish That Die Abruptly (12a), but easier than Book Of Numbers (12c) or Deuteronomy (12c). My comparisons may not be fair, as I didn't do an on-sight lead Aftershock or any of these others. Hangs, falls or TR's notwithstanding for comparison, 12a or 12b would be my best guess.

Presently, the X designation being there is intended to warn that there is no good gear available if it was to be lead and also that there was a very fragile hold up there while runout. There are other TR's that could have gear and this is one that wouldn't. Feb 14, 2002
I agree with Tony 100%. It is a fantastic route but it would be a nightmare to lead. There is a dynamic move to a flake at the crux. If, and probably when, this flake breaks, this route will get much, much harder. I think .12a is right. Feb 13, 2002