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Routes in West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung

Aftershock TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a X
Atom Smasher S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Baby Sitter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Break On Through to Chianti T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Break on Through T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chianti T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Clear-a-Sill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cruisin' for Burgers T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ein Kluck T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Ghetto Blaster T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Gibbet, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Incarnation S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Jimmy G T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Long John Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Next to Nearly T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rictus T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Rock For Climbing Routes To T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shock Of the New T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Strawberry Shortcut T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sunshine Wall T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toothsheaf Transfusion T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Unlead, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Unsaid, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Uranus T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Varieties Of Religious Experience T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Washington Irving T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Rabbit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Chris Reveley, Ajax Greene, 1976
Page Views: 1,224 total, 7/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Feb 15, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

A nice route with two good pitches. Start directly below the belay tree of Verschneidung at a wide crack. This is maybe 20 feet left of the upper Verschneidung dihedral. Up the wide crack using various holds (no offwidth required) to an easy low angle area. Aim straight up for a crease at the left edge of an overhanging headwall. Get gear at the base of the crease -- cam straight up, small wire in the crease -- and move left onto the steep wall. Get a cam above in an undercling. You can escape further left for a rest, but if you can, continue straight up on good face holds--it gets easy quickly. Continue to the belay tree. This pitch felt contrived, since at the crux headwall you can go just a few feet left to easier climbing.

Pitch 2 climbs a bit right of the tree with decent gear to the base of an overhanging buttress. Move left, then up a crack with good gear in the crack and out right (crux). Another easier but tricky bulge leads to a low angle slab and the Verschneidung rappel tree.

As of 2/16/03 the slings on this tree were crap. One ancient sling and one newer but partially cut. We traversed left on the east side of the ridge to the cable anchor that leads down to the bolts above Washington Irving.

Protection

Rated S in Rossiter, I felt this was G. Standard rack.

Photos

tooTALLtim
Boulder, CO
 
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
 
My partner could've sewn this up more if he brought a Singer, but he felt ok without one. At least past the crux. And this was his second .9.

Fun moves above good gear with a clean fall at the crux (you get a #1 right at the crux bulge!). Apr 2, 2008
I didn't lead the first pitch, but my partner found good gear. We both thought that it didn't deserve the S rating, and was a fun pitch. But tastes differ, and your mileage may vary. Jul 13, 2006
Clint Locks
Boulder
  5.9
Clint Locks   Boulder
  5.9
If you're using the Rossiter guidebook, the first pitch DEFINITELY merits an 's' rating. I don't really see a reason to do it, though. We top-roped it and it was OK, but not *great* fun. I'd start as for Vercheniediegdung...very-shy-dung...however you spell it...and just start Clear-a-Sill from the bolts by the tree (beg. of Verch's P2), making it, of course, a one-pitch climb. You can actually start 3 or 4 quality 8+s / 9s from there. Don't be an anchor hog, and have fun! Sep 28, 2004
Ben Mottinger    
 
There is a nice set of bolts for rapping at the top of this route now. A 60m will reach the bolts near the tree at the end of the first pitch. May 2, 2004
Shane Zentner
Colorado
Shane Zentner   Colorado
Clear-a-Sill is fun with an interesting crux. The crux appears to be a bulge with a nice crack that protects well. Pull over the bulge using the crack and climb to the top. Two rappels to the ground. Feb 20, 2003