PRINT: Rock Climb Clear-a-Sill, Eldorado Canyon State Park

Clear-a-Sill

5.9, Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches,

Avg: 1.9 from 36 votes
FA: Chris Reveley, Ajax Greene, 1976
Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > W Ridge > W Ridge - part B - Lo…

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

A nice route with two good pitches. Start directly below the belay tree of Verschneidung at a wide crack. This is maybe 20 feet left of the upper Verschneidung dihedral. Up the wide crack using various holds (no offwidth required) to an easy low angle area. Aim straight up for a crease at the left edge of an overhanging headwall. Get gear at the base of the crease -- cam straight up, small wire in the crease -- and move left onto the steep wall. Get a cam above in an undercling. You can escape further left for a rest, but if you can, continue straight up on good face holds--it gets easy quickly. Continue to the belay tree. This pitch felt contrived, since at the crux headwall you can go just a few feet left to easier climbing.

Pitch 2 climbs a bit right of the tree with decent gear to the base of an overhanging buttress. Move left, then up a crack with good gear in the crack and out right (crux). Another easier but tricky bulge leads to a low angle slab and the Verschneidung rappel tree.

As of 2/16/03 the slings on this tree were crap. One ancient sling and one newer but partially cut. We traversed left on the east side of the ridge to the cable anchor that leads down to the bolts above Washington Irving.

Protection

Rated S in Rossiter, I felt this was G. Standard rack.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

On the P2 crux. Lenny Miller belaying.

Just below the pitch 2 crux.

On the P1 crux. Lenny Miller belaying.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Shane Zentner
Colorado

Clear-a-Sill is fun with an interesting crux. The crux appears to be a bulge with a nice crack that protects well. Pull over the bulge using the crack and climb to the top. Two rappels to the ground. Feb 20, 2003

Ben Mottinger

There is a nice set of bolts for rapping at the top of this route now. A 60m will reach the bolts near the tree at the end of the first pitch. May 2, 2004

Clint Locks
Boulder

5.9

If you're using the Rossiter guidebook, the first pitch DEFINITELY merits an 's' rating. I don't really see a reason to do it, though. We top-roped it and it was OK, but not *great* fun. I'd start as for Vercheniediegdung...very-shy-dung...however you spell it...and just start Clear-a-Sill from the bolts by the tree (beg. of Verch's P2), making it, of course, a one-pitch climb. You can actually start 3 or 4 quality 8+s / 9s from there. Don't be an anchor hog, and have fun! Sep 28, 2004

Zach Allen

I didn't lead the first pitch, but my partner found good gear. We both thought that it didn't deserve the S rating, and was a fun pitch. But tastes differ, and your mileage may vary. Jul 13, 2006

tooTALLtim
Vanlife

My partner could've sewn this up more if he brought a Singer, but he felt ok without one. At least past the crux. And this was his second .9.

Fun moves above good gear with a clean fall at the crux (you get a #1 right at the crux bulge!). Apr 2, 2008

plantmandan
Brighton, CO

5.9

Climbed P2 after we climbed VD and rappelled to the middle anchor. That makes for a very fun linkup if the routes are not occupied (this route and VD are surprisingly uncrowded, probably overlooked by people heading up to other popular routes). This pitch is very fun. The pro is good when you need it most and decent enough on the easier sections. It's quite steep at the crux for an Eldo 5.9, but the rock has some great features for your hands and feet.

Note: a 60m rope gets you down most of the way from the middle anchor to the ground, but some easy 5th Class downclimbing is necessary for the last 10 feet or so. Always knot your ropes! Aug 3, 2019