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Routes in West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung

Aftershock TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a X
Atom Smasher S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Baby Sitter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Break On Through to Chianti T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Break on Through T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chianti T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Clear-a-Sill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cruisin' for Burgers T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ein Kluck T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Ghetto Blaster T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Gibbet, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Incarnation S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Jimmy G T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Long John Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Next to Nearly T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rictus T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Rock For Climbing Routes To T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shock Of the New T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Strawberry Shortcut T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sunshine Wall T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toothsheaf Transfusion T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Unlead, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Unsaid, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Uranus T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Varieties Of Religious Experience T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Washington Irving T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Rabbit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Type: Trad
FA: George Hurley, Cindy Stanley, Chris Reveley, 1976
Page Views: 2,598 total, 13/month
Shared By: Chris Dawson on Apr 28, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Starts in between The Unsaid and Cruisin' for Burgers from a large ledge with a tree. Climb a right facing dihedral with small gear (a little vegetated). Pull up left where it gets vertical and step right above the roof (crux). Belay at the broken band and rap from The Unsaid or Washington Irving anchor. This pitch is worth doing if you're in the area and other routes are occupied. I wouldn't make an outing of it though.

Protection

Rossiter's book calls this pitch "S", but I thought the pro was fine.
mhagny
 
mhagny  
 
P1 = 4 stars.
P2 = no stars.

Even though there's bomber pro at your waist when you start into it, that P1 crux step-up and flop onto the slab seems so improbable that I found it to be very heady -- I could barely convince myself to try it, and I've done a lot of Eldo 9s. I had to hang on the gear a bit and psyche myself up for it, and even above that, it's still a bit insecure and heady. Or maybe I had used up all my mental mojo already that day . . . .

Definitely rap out after doing P1. P2 is dangerous and has only one mildly interesting move over the lip. There's a bunch of loose rock getting up to it (no gear), and then you sling the pointy block that sounds hollow and could blow at any time. There isn't any other gear available in this rotten band. Then you reluctantly pull on the pointy block, then stand on it. Reach up and step up -- easy 5.8 and barely of interest. hen it's just 5.3 - 5.4 slab with no pro except for a sapling. Hugely disappointing pitch and not worthy of mention in the guidebook. All risk and no fun. Rap out and go get on something of better quality and safer -- there's plenty nearby. Aug 29, 2017
Ed Krejcik
Broomfield, CO
 
Ed Krejcik   Broomfield, CO
 
Eric's beta is right on. I had to figure it out myself and find that key hold out right. The wasps in the key crux holds probably made it a letter grade harder haha.... Oct 16, 2016
mountainhick
Black Hawk, CO
  5.10
mountainhick   Black Hawk, CO
  5.10
One move wonder. I apparently missed the 5.9 beta on this move which felt harder to me than any single move on Outer Space. This one I had to downclimb twice to rest to figure it out. Jun 15, 2015
Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
  5.9
Pro on P1 seemed fine. Thin in the first dihedral but should stop a fall, great red Alien just before the crux, then a fixed nut and a blue Alien at your waist for the crux. Fell there, and they held fine. I believe the R rating in the newer Levin guide is for the second pitch? Didn't do it, but the pro certainly looked questionable from above.

Overall a super fun and tricky "5.9". Ended up doing the crux hands first, making a big reach right to a good edge over the roof, and hauling my quivering body over afterwards.

EDIT: After going back and leading this a second time, I feel like it's simply .9, definitely no "+", read below for beta or ignore to preserve your onsight...

Approaching the crux, climb the small corner/arete and place gear under the roof/flake as normal from the good handhold atop the small "arete". From here look right to the hanging slab and spot the good crimp/jug. Reeeach, grab it, walk feet up, pull on to slab. Nothing awkward, nothing weird. Jan 25, 2015
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
I mean who doesn't like the backstep-lean-reach-belly flop crux maneuver! I must admit it is difficult in gloves if you can't reach (or feel) that crimper above the bulge. Nice glove-point by my partner on this one. Maybe there should be a new scale for gloved ascents in Eldo (snicker)... but seriously, it can really make easier routes challenging and a blast in winter! Feb 13, 2010
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
There is also a seldom-done second pitch to this route. Rossiter refers to this as a separate climb called "The Direct Finish" in the latest Eldo guidebook. I do not recall who did the FA, but it was a later date.
To climb the second pitch (5.8), climb the crux and slab of the Strawberry Shortcut and when you hit the loose band above and start moving up and left to the ledge as for anchors above The Unlead and Cruising For Burgers, look up. You will see a shallow, right-facing corner hanging above. Continue up through a bulging face, moving up and left, then back right. Cams go in horizontals for starts (reasonably good gear, but 'crafty'), then placements are easy to find once in the corner. Continue to the top of the rack and finish up and over.

Walk over to the big corner to the West as for Sunshine Wall and then rap down that route on 2 raps. 60m rope advised, but not required. Mar 7, 2006
SirVato
Boulder
  5.9+ PG13
SirVato   Boulder
  5.9+ PG13
I agree with the above statement. The crux it self is pretty well protected but there is no gear for a while after the move over the roof however, the climbing does ease off. I got a sweet green Alien in at the crux.
It is not a hard move but, very inobvious once your standing under the roof. I had to climb up try it it one way then, downclimb to the slab when I realized that wasn't gonna work. I repeated this process 3 times before I realized how high you need to climb before making the balancey step onto the roof.

Three stars for thoughtfulness at the crux.

Warning for the second : If you blow the crux you WILL swing to the right and tumble across the lip of the roof. Mar 6, 2006
Brent Roaten
Anchorage, AK
  5.9+
Brent Roaten   Anchorage, AK
  5.9+
Did this route yesterday but had not read these comments prior. The gear up to the crux is great. However, unless I completely missed something, you can't get in gear until after you have pulled the crux and made a move a bit up the slab. If you fall pulling the crux with the last piece below you and to the left (see Ernie's photo) it could be ugly and merits an "S" rating. The move is [committing] and I thought 5.9+ was right on... Nov 27, 2005
S. Kimball
  5.9+
S. Kimball  
  5.9+
If this is 5.9, + or not ???I'll eat my hat. Jun 14, 2005
Sergio P
Idaho Springs, CO
5.9+
Sergio P   Idaho Springs, CO
5.9+
The Eldo guide book gives this route a "S" rating. However, I disagree. There is good (not great) gear before and after the crux move (5.9+). What might give this route an "S" rating could be based on the non-obvious move required to pull the crux. Although the crux move is not beyond 5.9+, it is not clear how you should do it when you get there. This is a fun route worth doing if your are in the area. Feb 7, 2005
Lance Cockwood
  5.9+
Lance Cockwood  
  5.9+
Great route, well worth three stars. Feb 12, 2004
Shane Zentner
Colorado
Shane Zentner   Colorado
Climbed this yesterday and liked it. Nothing to get too excited about, though. Pulling over the roof was fun and a bit spicey. Decent pro for the most part. Jul 14, 2003
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10a
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.10a
I did this yesterday and thought it was quite good. The rock and gear seemed fine. There were some surprisingly hard moves in the middle section getting up to the roof. That part looked easy from below. There is great gear at the roof. A few feet below you can get some good brass and a cam. I used a 1.5 WC offset Friend (I'm loving these!), but the offset is not necessary. At the roof I used a green Alien (tight). I had to downclimb half the pitch to retrieve this, since I had used both my cams in that size range down below. The crux move seemed hard to me. For my first try I used reach instead of brains, got stuck and couldn't reverse, so I grabbed the cam. I then figured it out and did it a pretty cool way. Nov 14, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
I did the route again yesterday. You wind up to the crux by moving slightly left in the dihedral after a low angle section, and then make the crux shifting hard right into a second slab. This is the steepest part of the climb, but it is not [terribly] difficult. The rock is not as bad as I recalled. At the start of the crux sequence there is good pro. To protect the crux well requires nuts in the #3-#5 (Black Diamond sizing or equivalent) range, these will give you solid protection below; I suggest a double set of nuts [in the] small range or some large RP's. A fall to the slab below could still be possible with rope stretch, so use short slings or draws. Two very small cams (tops to first knuckle= orange to Yellow HB cams or size Eq.) protect high and left under a [reasonable] flake [immediately] prior to the crux move. This pro is at waist level as the crux is completed. Presuming the cams hold and reasonable belayer attention is given, you will not get any exciting falls on this route. Jan 21, 2002