Mountain Project Logo

Routes in West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung

Aftershock TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a X
Atom Smasher S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Baby Sitter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Break On Through to Chianti T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Break on Through T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chianti T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Clear-a-Sill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cruisin' for Burgers T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ein Kluck T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Ghetto Blaster T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Gibbet, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Incarnation S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Jimmy G T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Long John Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Next to Nearly T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rictus T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Rock For Climbing Routes To T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shock Of the New T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Strawberry Shortcut T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sunshine Wall T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toothsheaf Transfusion T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Unlead, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Unsaid, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Uranus T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Varieties Of Religious Experience T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Washington Irving T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Rabbit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Type: Trad, 70 ft Fixed Hardware (2)
FA: unknown to me
Page Views: 949 total, 10/month
Shared By: Dave Holliday on Jan 10, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route is an alternative to the last pitch of Long John Wall. Get yourself to the start of the last pitch of that route to set yourself up for this one. About ten feet to the right, you'll see an alcove with a small tree. This route takes the wide crack up the right side of the alcove. Even though the crack is quite wide in places, there are spots for regular size gear. There are a couple of pins right before the wide section. They both look dubious and there is better gear nearby.

Location

This route starts about ten feet to the right of the start of the last pitch of Long John Wall. Look for an alcove with a small tree in the left side of the alcove.

To descend, scramble climber's left to the descent for Long John Wall back to the large ledge.

Protection

Standard rack to a #4 Camalot.

Photos

- No Photos -
Mac P
Denver, CO
 
Mac P   Denver, CO
 
The crux protected with small cams. The offwidth is far too big for a #4 until higher up, maybe a #6, but don't bother carrying one. Mar 3, 2016
Evan Deis  
 
Pins are good. No need for anything bigger than a #3. Jun 21, 2013
I like this pitch, there's hidden jugs in/around the "offwidth". Big cam useful higher up. I found ample cracks to build an anchor at the base. Yes, pins are dubious. Nov 23, 2011
Clint Locks
Boulder
 
Clint Locks   Boulder
 
I found it prudent to build an anchor at the base of the final pitch of LJW, then extend the anchor to the beginning of this pitch. Also, though it is a wide crack, I wouldn't at all call this an 'off-width' pitch. I used maybe one off-width move on the whole thing. Nice alternative to the final pitch of Long John's (though there's nothing wrong with finishing that way, either). Bring small gear. Jan 13, 2010