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Routes in West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung

Aftershock TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a X
Atom Smasher S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Baby Sitter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Break On Through to Chianti T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Break on Through T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chianti T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Clear-a-Sill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cruisin' for Burgers T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ein Kluck T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Ghetto Blaster T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Gibbet, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Incarnation S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Jimmy G T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Long John Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Next to Nearly T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rictus T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Rock For Climbing Routes To T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shock Of the New T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Strawberry Shortcut T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sunshine Wall T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toothsheaf Transfusion T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Unlead, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Unsaid, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Uranus T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Varieties Of Religious Experience T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Washington Irving T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Rabbit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Mike Brooks, Jim Foster, 1982
Page Views: 200 total, 6/month
Shared By: Eric Klammer on Feb 4, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

A short but clean panel of stone lies just right of the initial Strawberry Shortcut corner. This route climbs the right side of the wall then traverses left along the horizontal crack system twenty feet up eventually meeting and joining the right-facing corner of Strawberry Shortcut for a few final feet to the large ledge above.

Protection can be tricky and difficult to place, and it is required at short intervals to keep the leader off of the ground just below. Thin, knotted slings make work well stuffed into the obtuse, oblong pockets along the last half of the crack. Double rope technique is suggested for the safety of the follower.

While short, this route is sustained over the traverse and will get you pumped if you hang out too long fiddling with gear. This is not a route to seek out on its own, but it makes for a fun alternative start to Strawberry Shortcut or any of the routes off of the Washington Irving ledge.

Location

Locate the clean wall with a horizontal crack system splitting it just right of the initial Strawberry Shortcut dihedral. Climb it.

Protection

Wires, small cams, and knotted slings(?).

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9 R
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9 R
Maybe R not PG-13, because the crux is getting up there, you could fall before you get gear, and if you do fall, the landing is bad. Dec 6, 2015
Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
 
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
 
Fun climbing over a short distance. Very pumpy in its current state as the wall has a good amount of lichen on it rendering your feet pretty useless for the last half of the traverse. If 5.9 is towards your limit, you may have to decide between getting pumped placing weird, tricky gear and maybe falling on it or placing little gear and just going for it! Feb 4, 2015