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Routes in West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung

Aftershock TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a X
Atom Smasher S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Baby Sitter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Break On Through to Chianti T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Break on Through T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chianti T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Clear-a-Sill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cruisin' for Burgers T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ein Kluck T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Ghetto Blaster T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Gibbet, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Incarnation S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Jimmy G T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Long John Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Next to Nearly T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rictus T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Rock For Climbing Routes To T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shock Of the New T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Strawberry Shortcut T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sunshine Wall T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toothsheaf Transfusion T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Unlead, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Unsaid, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Uranus T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Varieties Of Religious Experience T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Washington Irving T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Rabbit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Type: Trad, TR, 2 pitches
FA: A. & M. Sharp
Page Views: 1,761 total, 9/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 11, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

The route is in the popular Unsaid area of the West Ridge. Use the directions from The Unsaid, Washington Irving, or Cruising for Burgers to locate this area. Once the area is located, find the climb Washington Irving. To locate Sunshine Wall, look at the top of Washington Irving and follow a ramp down and to the left. The "ramp" is very small and is sloping down outwards, and on the right side, but is coming from the left of the top of the pitch. The ramp is anywhere from a few inches wide at the top to huge at the botom (before disappearing [beneath] a large roof). The smallness of the last bit of ramp makes the climb somewhat awkward. Follow this line down until the ramp becomes much larger, below and left of a massive roof/ bulge. That is the upper portion of Sunshine wall. A few hand-sized [pieces] protect that section, if memory serves me correctly. The crack system leading directly up to this ramp (a little chunky) is the first part of the climb.

Alternatively, to find the climb... scramble up some Class 4 rock to get to the good rock and then look just a few feet to the right of the line Chianti (left of Washington Irving). Start up the chunky crack system near a small pine tree. The crack system peters out a bit after a bulge, then go up a face/slab to the afforementioned roof, where you tend to the right to gain the small part of the sloping "ramp", which is followed up and right to the tree.

The climb is described as 2 pitches, but with some longer slings can easily be done as a single pitch.

Rap from the top of Washington Irving.

Protection

Standard Rack with a few cams. It can be TR'd from the tree and anchors above Washington Irving.
Great exposure on the hand traverse. Dec 27, 2010
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.8
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.8
This route should be climbed more often. The climbing is fun and puts you in a spectacular position. Dec 26, 2010
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.9
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.9
If Chianti is 3 stars, this is 2 stars. Good rock and position. Decent gear. Strenuous finish. Move right towards the arete before reaching the ramp for a better line but less gear. Jan 1, 2004
Peter Spindloe
North Vancouver, BC
Peter Spindloe   North Vancouver, BC
Another way to locate this fun route is as follows:

Go up the corner immediately right of Chianti. When you get onto the big ledge below a big roof, Chianti goes left and Sunshine Wall goes right. The move around the corner protects with small cams or nuts and the ramp to the belay is the highlight of the route. Feb 14, 2002