Type: Trad, TR, 2 pitches
FA: A. & M. Sharp
Page Views: 2,965 total · 11/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 11, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

The route is in the popular Unsaid area of the West Ridge. Use the directions from The Unsaid, Washington Irving, or Cruising for Burgers to locate this area. Once the area is located, find the climb Washington Irving. To locate Sunshine Wall, look at the top of Washington Irving and follow a ramp down and to the left. The "ramp" is very small and is sloping down outwards, and on the right side, but is coming from the left of the top of the pitch. The ramp is anywhere from a few inches wide at the top to huge at the botom (before disappearing [beneath] a large roof). The smallness of the last bit of ramp makes the climb somewhat awkward. Follow this line down until the ramp becomes much larger, below and left of a massive roof/ bulge. That is the upper portion of Sunshine wall. A few hand-sized [pieces] protect that section, if memory serves me correctly. The crack system leading directly up to this ramp (a little chunky) is the first part of the climb.

Alternatively, to find the climb... scramble up some Class 4 rock to get to the good rock and then look just a few feet to the right of the line Chianti (left of Washington Irving). Start up the chunky crack system near a small pine tree. The crack system peters out a bit after a bulge, then go up a face/slab to the afforementioned roof, where you tend to the right to gain the small part of the sloping "ramp", which is followed up and right to the tree.

The climb is described as 2 pitches, but with some longer slings can easily be done as a single pitch.

Rap from the top of Washington Irving.

Protection Suggest change

Standard Rack with a few cams. It can be TR'd from the tree and anchors above Washington Irving.

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