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Routes in West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung

Aftershock TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a X
Atom Smasher S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Baby Sitter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Break On Through to Chianti T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Break on Through T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chianti T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Clear-a-Sill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cruisin' for Burgers T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ein Kluck T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Ghetto Blaster T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Gibbet, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Incarnation S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Jimmy G T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Long John Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Next to Nearly T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rictus T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Rock For Climbing Routes To T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shock Of the New T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Strawberry Shortcut T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sunshine Wall T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toothsheaf Transfusion T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Unlead, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Unsaid, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Uranus T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Varieties Of Religious Experience T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Washington Irving T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Rabbit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Type: Trad, TR, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: C. Archer and C.A. Crysdale, 1987
Page Views: 1,207 total, 6/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jan 25, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Just above the West Ridge Amphitheater (as for Allosaur) and just below the Unsaid area there lies a set of less-often-climbed routes. This is the High Anxiety area. High Anxiety and Varieties Of Religious Experience are two of the better routes here. Most of the routes here are 5.10 to 5.11 and almost all of them are runout at least a little.

To find Varieties Of Religious Experience, first locate the big clean slab 100' down and 30' left of the hanging slab of Verschneidung, where a lone pine tree holds a rap station. A right-facing, right-leaning corner borders the edge of this lower slab, which is Verschneidung Indirect Start. About 40 feet left of this, start climbing.

P1: (5.10d, S) Pick and choose your way up the slab/face climbing a short distance left of an obvious roof which is about 80' overhead. The difficulty will be from 5.9 to 5.10 depending upon your exact line. The protection available will also vary according to your position, but it is never great. As the slab disappears, cut over to the right on an undercling to just below the extreme left-hand side of the roof and go up through a short, right-facing feature (crux). Run it out to a large pine tree from there and belay in a stance below the tree.

P2: (5.11b) The good pitch! Move out and left from the pine tree on jams and underclings below a roof, which is rising up and left. There are a few loose holds in the area, but they can easily be avoided. After 10' of climbing (5.10) you will tackle the roof at a small crack and continue up the face for the first bolt. If this runout is not to your liking, you can place a few pieces including a hand-sized cam in the cracks below the roof before pulling over it. From the first bolt climb up and left to a second bolt. From there, climb straight up (thin crux) to the top of a ledge at a 3rd bolt. Continue up another 35 feet on thin cracks with slightly sharp rock to the top of the buttress (5.8).

I toyed with the idea of giving this route 3 stars, as it is a very good route, but it just can't compete with the 'true Eldo classics.'

To descend, scramble NW up the back side of the West Ridge and descend as for Verschneidung.

Protection

P1 is runout on so-so gear. Take a set of RP's and small Stoppers with a set of cams to 3". No doubles are really needed. P2 is bolted but there is quite some distance to the first bolt. A [hand-sized] cam (2.5") can be placed to fill the void. The top-out over P2 requires a few medium to large nuts or small cams.
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.11b
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.11b
The large belay tree at the top of P1 has a vertical split in it at about head height. Last weekend on a windy Saturday, the tree was bending, and the split was opening and closing. Dec 16, 2004
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.11b
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.11b
Verschneidung Direct Start vs Religous Experience P1:

According to the Rossiter text and topo, the only difference between Verschneidung Direct Start and Varieties of Religous Experience (VORE) P1 is that the Direct Start climbs the headwall directly (the obvious line, see photos), supposedly 10c but felt more like 10a, while VORE moves right and up the black streak to a tiny right facing corner, supposedly 10d. That would be a bit spooky on the lead, since the gear is down and left, although the moves on the right weren't too hard on TR.

If this is true, then VORE doesn't really have an independent first pitch. Dec 16, 2004
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.11b
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.11b
My opinions difffer a bit from Tony's. I really liked P1. P2, though hard--more in figuring out what to do than in actually doing the moves--was just so so. Good position. Poor rock.

P1: Rossiter is very unclear. He says to move a bit left to the undercling. So we started pretty far right and angled left on easy slabs to a "wallow"--a wide crack/trough that lead about 8 feet further to the base of the undercling. Doing this we missed all the runout 9 and 10s that Tony mentions. Which is the original way? The undercling right is spooky. Make sure the gear at the start is good, because if it blows, there is essentially no backup. I got in a red microcamalot straight up in the thin undercling and some opposed brass nuts further right. Plus a #2.5 and #3 Friend and 2 more pieces in the tiny right facing corner. Above the undercling I didn't find any 10d. After the undercling, the "ceiling" is maybe 9. Straight up from there is 10a at the most. Perhaps 10d if you're shorter? I tried moving right above the overhang on some big holds. This was airy and promising, but I was unable to safely move up onto the slab.

P2: The approach crack/corner is awkward. Probably 9. Place several cams to be safe. Moving from the first to the second bolt is a bit scary. It feels like you could swing and hit the approach corner. You can place a cam at the bottom of the left facing flake before the last move to the 2nd bolt. Moving up from the 2nd bolt is the crux. I ended up hanging a bunch trying out the various options. Tried 4 ways. 1 worked. Too many holds, and not clear which sequence would work. Above the crux face we angled left on easy ground to the Verschneidung anchors rather than up the final wall that Tony says is 5.8. It looked pretty green. Jun 26, 2004
Chris Archer
  5.11b
Chris Archer  
  5.11b
Pitches 1 and 2 offer a variety of different experiences, hence the name. Bolts on the crux pitch were replaced in October 2003. Nov 12, 2003