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Routes in West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung

Aftershock TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a X
Atom Smasher S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Baby Sitter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Break On Through to Chianti T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Break on Through T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chianti T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Clear-a-Sill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cruisin' for Burgers T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ein Kluck T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Ghetto Blaster T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Gibbet, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Incarnation S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Jimmy G T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Long John Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Next to Nearly T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rictus T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Rock For Climbing Routes To T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shock Of the New T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Strawberry Shortcut T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sunshine Wall T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toothsheaf Transfusion T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Unlead, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Unsaid, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Uranus T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Varieties Of Religious Experience T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Washington Irving T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Rabbit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 942 total, 5/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jan 2, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

The route is a "squeeze in" and may originally have been a more well known and often climbed route, but for the fact that there are obvious lines almost within reach on either side of this relatively blank face.

Follow the directions to a climb called "The Unsaid." Climb that rope and hang a TR above it (up and left are the rap anchors).

TR the face immediately left of The Unsaid, and without using the crack of The Unsaid or the crack to your left, toward Washington Irving. Though the Rossiter book calls it an arete, it is a face.

The crux is a less-than-vertical face with crimper fingers and smears for feet. It is a 3 move crux, with only one really hard move. The crux sequence begins with a shallow (1/4 pad) finger pocket in the left hand and had some long reaches.

A second, easier, crux is getting past the roof at the top, which is done near the right hand side, but quite so far as to be reaching into the crack system of The Unsaid.

I've tried as have others to move through the roof via the seam on the left side, but as of yet this seems to be undone.

Protection

One could protect the unlead by moving to either crack system to either side (and back again) every so-often, but this breaks up the climbing. It is better as a Top Rope.

If you want to lead it, take gear, small to 2".

Photos

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tk1085  
Did this maybe a week ago. Thin lower down, but the roof goes on the left. After I figured our the move thought, it was easier than lower on the climb. Fun route. Mar 10, 2017
Chris O'Connor
boulder, co
  5.11b X
Chris O'Connor   boulder, co
  5.11b X
The right-facing seam just below the anchors seemed about 11b to me, and would make sense as the arete between the Unsaid and Washington Irving. The crux to me pulled around the arete from left to right into the corner slab and the anchors. Sep 10, 2007
The final roof goes at the R facing corner seam. Surprisingly not that difficult, although rather tricky. 5.11+/12-. Beth Bennett and I toproped it last September (02). Aug 21, 2003