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|Shared By:||Tony B on Jan 2, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Follow the directions to a climb called "The Unsaid." Climb that rope and hang a TR above it (up and left are the rap anchors).
TR the face immediately left of The Unsaid, and without using the crack of The Unsaid or the crack to your left, toward Washington Irving. Though the Rossiter book calls it an arete, it is a face.
The crux is a less-than-vertical face with crimper fingers and smears for feet. It is a 3 move crux, with only one really hard move. The crux sequence begins with a shallow (1/4 pad) finger pocket in the left hand and had some long reaches.
A second, easier, crux is getting past the roof at the top, which is done near the right hand side, but quite so far as to be reaching into the crack system of The Unsaid.
I've tried as have others to move through the roof via the seam on the left side, but as of yet this seems to be undone.