Break on Through
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
FA: | Jim Erickson, John Behrens, 1968. |
Page Views: | 9,853 total · 45/month |
Shared By: | Ben Mottinger on Feb 1, 2001 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
What a neat route. This starts left of The Unsaid, Washington Irving, and Chianti in a prominent, R-facing dihedral, just right of a large overhang. The ...R-facing dihedral 10 feet right of Break On Through is Chianti.
P1: The first pitch is a nice length with varied climbing. Some technical stemming and liebacking are the crux for this pitch (8). After the first steep section, continue up a ramp, then up through another steep dihedral. Belay at the tree off to the right.
P2: Climb easy ground across the rotten ledge to the base of the large right-facing dihedral. The crux here is some difficult stemming on thin edges to reach great finger jams. Several tough moves is all though. The pro is good here and easy to place at a rest before the hard moves. Descend around the back side then make a single 50m rap to the Unsaid anchors. Rap with a single 50m to a ledge, then downclimb an easy crack back to the base.
P1: The first pitch is a nice length with varied climbing. Some technical stemming and liebacking are the crux for this pitch (8). After the first steep section, continue up a ramp, then up through another steep dihedral. Belay at the tree off to the right.
P2: Climb easy ground across the rotten ledge to the base of the large right-facing dihedral. The crux here is some difficult stemming on thin edges to reach great finger jams. Several tough moves is all though. The pro is good here and easy to place at a rest before the hard moves. Descend around the back side then make a single 50m rap to the Unsaid anchors. Rap with a single 50m to a ledge, then downclimb an easy crack back to the base.
From the belay tree the second pitch is the large right facing dihedral to your left. Straight above you is the second pitch of Chianti.
After topping out, if you look to your right and down about 30-40 you should see the rappel anchors. Climb around the backside to the anchors. Rappel down to another set of anchors, then youll end up on a ledge by the start of the Unsaid. Traverse back towards the start of Break on Through (left, facing the cliff) and then downclimb easy terrain.
The crux pitch is very protectable with small nuts (Wild Country #1-#4). Jan 1, 2001
Louisville, CO
Westminster, Colorado
Seattle, WA
Boulder, CO
As for the crux ... well it did seem devious and/or sandbagged. Suffice it to say we discovered it can be aided! Oct 23, 2003
P1 was some of the steepest, funnest 5.8 around. No need for anything larger than 3 Camalot.
P2 was tricky. Getting off of the ledge was the hardest part. Look for the opposing hold out right on the roof. Visually this hold is obvious, but it didn't seem useful until I tried about 5 other starting positions, none of which got me anywhere. By pushing on this with the right hand, you can begin to stem up the corner. I placed 2 stoppers and a microcam (blue Alien) before leaving the ledge, climbed up about 5 feet or so to the bomber finger lock, placed another microcam (green Alien) and moved to another, even better fingerlock, which ends the strenuous climbing. I ended up using some "chimney technique," i.e. scumming my hips on the right wall of the dihedral while facing left and stemming out on the left wall.
Worth doing, short route, good training. Nov 11, 2003
Boulder
I simply did not see them, or maybe they are meant to be in the crack where my fingers didn't fit... I tried for a long time to get a good grip in the crack, but try as I may, all I got was a very thin "tips" .
Maybe my fingers are finger lock challenged.
WT Mar 24, 2004
Boulder, CO
Golden, CO
Denver
I must add that I did the route with a guy wearing two left shoes - comedy! Mar 25, 2004
Westminster, CO
Boulder, CO
Arvada
Moab, UT
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Innsbruck, AT
Denver, CO
Haha oops. I accidentally tried the Break on Through dihedral thinking it was still Chianti. Thought I was on the hardest 5.8+ on the planet and wanted to cry.
Also did the first pitch of Break on Through which was stellar. May 26, 2011
Around Boulder, CO
Yes, that's usually how people do it. But if so, you have to be solid. With 40M of rope out, the crux has ledge-fall potential. Dec 25, 2011
Black Hawk, CO