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Break on Through

Name: Break on Through
Rating: 3.0

5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung

L › R R › L A › Z

	Aftershock TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a X
	Atom Smasher S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
	Baby Sitter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Break on Through T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Break On Through to Chianti T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Chianti T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Clear-a-Sill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Cruisin' for Burgers T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Ein Kluck T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Ghetto Blaster T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
	Gibbet, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Incarnation S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Knife, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Long John Direct (Original Aid Start) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Long John Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Next to Irving T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Next to Nearly T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Pluto T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Quick Silver T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Rictus T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
	Rock For Climbing Routes To T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Shock Of the New T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
	Strawberry Shortcut T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Sunshine Wall T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Thin Ice T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
	Think Quickly T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Toothsheaf Transfusion T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
	Unlead, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
	Unsaid, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Uranus T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Varieties Of Religious Experience T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
	Washington Irving T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	White Rabbit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X

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Type:	Trad, 2 pitches
FA:	Jim Erickson, John Behrens, 1968.
Page Views:	12,957 total · 48/month
Shared By:	Ben Mottinger on Feb 1, 2001
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

What a neat route. This starts left of The Unsaid, Washington Irving, and Chianti in a prominent, R-facing dihedral, just right of a large overhang. The ...R-facing dihedral 10 feet right of Break On Through is Chianti.

P1: The first pitch is a nice length with varied climbing. Some technical stemming and liebacking are the crux for this pitch (8). After the first steep section, continue up a ramp, then up through another steep dihedral. Belay at the tree off to the right.

P2: Climb easy ground across the rotten ledge to the base of the large right-facing dihedral. The crux here is some difficult stemming on thin edges to reach great finger jams. Several tough moves is all though. The pro is good here and easy to place at a rest before the hard moves. Descend around the back side then make a single 50m rap to the Unsaid anchors. Rap with a single 50m to a ledge, then downclimb an easy crack back to the base.