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Break on Through
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3 from 210
votes
Routes in West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung
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Aftershock TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a X |
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Atom Smasher S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Baby Sitter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Break on Through T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Break On Through to Chianti T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chianti T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Clear-a-Sill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cruisin' for Burgers T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ein Kluck T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Ghetto Blaster T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Gibbet, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Incarnation S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Long John Direct (Original Aid Start) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Long John Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Next to Irving T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Next to Nearly T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rictus T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X |
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Rock For Climbing Routes To T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Shock Of the New T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X |
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Strawberry Shortcut T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sunshine Wall T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Toothsheaf Transfusion T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Unlead, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X |
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Unsaid, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Uranus T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Varieties Of Religious Experience T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Washington Irving T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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White Rabbit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| FA: | Jim Erickson, John Behrens, 1968. |
| Page Views: | 11,628 total · 48/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Mottinger on Feb 1, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: COVID-19 Notice & Seasonal Closures
Details
Per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
What a neat route. This starts left of The Unsaid, Washington Irving, and Chianti in a prominent, R-facing dihedral, just right of a large overhang. The ...R-facing dihedral 10 feet right of Break On Through is Chianti.
P1: The first pitch is a nice length with varied climbing. Some technical stemming and liebacking are the crux for this pitch (8). After the first steep section, continue up a ramp, then up through another steep dihedral. Belay at the tree off to the right.
P2: Climb easy ground across the rotten ledge to the base of the large right-facing dihedral. The crux here is some difficult stemming on thin edges to reach great finger jams. Several tough moves is all though. The pro is good here and easy to place at a rest before the hard moves. Descend around the back side then make a single 50m rap to the Unsaid anchors. Rap with a single 50m to a ledge, then downclimb an easy crack back to the base.
P1: The first pitch is a nice length with varied climbing. Some technical stemming and liebacking are the crux for this pitch (8). After the first steep section, continue up a ramp, then up through another steep dihedral. Belay at the tree off to the right.
P2: Climb easy ground across the rotten ledge to the base of the large right-facing dihedral. The crux here is some difficult stemming on thin edges to reach great finger jams. Several tough moves is all though. The pro is good here and easy to place at a rest before the hard moves. Descend around the back side then make a single 50m rap to the Unsaid anchors. Rap with a single 50m to a ledge, then downclimb an easy crack back to the base.
Photos
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