Avg: 2 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m)|
|FA:||[FA: Eric Goukas and Mark Sheppard, 1980]|
|Page Views:||1,027 total · 5/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Nov 9, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
For more information visit:
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Find this route by locating Long John Wall. Look just to the left of the broken, right-facing corner at the base of LJW. The arete on the left of this is the route.
There is a clean arete with a few tiny seams in it, 15' up off the ground, a short finger lock section, and then flakes. Climb in from either side (5.9) to establish yourself on the left side of the arete on a reasonable set of footholds. Try in vain to get a RP placement you trust around the right hand side, which is a blind placement fromt the good stance. Give up and climb a few more feet up and left onto the left side, checking out the nasty 20' landing you'd get. Look at the seam at the left hand and decide again that nothing good goes in there. Quit fooling around and make a few 5.9 moves to a 10-inch section of "finger crack" where you can place a TCU or alien. Clip it and make a crux move (9+) and then run for the ledge on easy moves. Don't fall. Place a piece or two near the ledge for a directional. Climb up and left to a tree with slings that can be backed up by nuts up and right above. (no rap rings here) or go up and right to join Long John Wall.
In any case, when you come down, ask yourself if that was really S (given grade) or VS. At least the rock is nice solid stone!