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Routes in West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John

Barrel of Monkeys S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bloke On The Side T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Bridget the Midget T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Byway T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Chick on the Side T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Conversions T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X
Court Jester T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Crazy Stairs T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Curving Dihedral T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dandi-Line T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dead Letter Department T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Drug Abuse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Erickson's Finish T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
False Prophet T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fever, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Going Postal T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Good Ship Venus T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Handcracker Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hanging Chad T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Heat Wave T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Horse d'Oeuvre (aka Pony Express P1 to Zip Code) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Human Factor, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Hyperspace Roundup T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Ignominity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ignore Me T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Iron Horse T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Knife, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lightning Bolt Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lost in the Netherlands T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mail Ridge Tower Link-Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mail Ridge, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mesca-Line T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Muscle and Hate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Pluto T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pony Express T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pony Express, Briggs' Variation T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Practice Climb 101 T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Practice Wall T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prison Sex T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Pygmy Pony T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Quick Silver T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Quicksand T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Quiet Desperation T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Reckoning T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Rhombohedral T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rope to Ruin T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Seemingly Innocent T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Side Wall, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Sister Morphine T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sooberb T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sooberb Lite T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sundial T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sword Of Damocles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thin Ice T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Think Quickly T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Unbroken Chain T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Warp Drive Overload S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Who's Holding T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Wind Tunnel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Zeros and Ones T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
variation to Mail Ridge T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: D. Hare & S. Woodruff, 1978
Page Views: 101 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 11, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This description is for the route as we did it. The existing information is somewhat ambiguous and it was not absolutely determinate how [far] we were to follow existing pitches (particularly on P2 of Ignominity) so we jumped off route as soon as possible to create a more [independent] line, or one AT LEAST as [independent] as intended.

This climb is a 1* or 2* climb, depending on how you look at it. It certainly has 2* sections, Is that enough to make the climb 2*, or do the 1* sections make it just 1*??? I guess 1.5* is good.

To find this climb, hike up the West Ridge to the Base of Long John Wall, and then just a shave further to the base of Ignominity.

P1: Climb the first pitch of Ignominity (5.7), and continue up onto the second pitch for perhaps 15' (5.8) before taversing right below the first roof. This deviation goes around a bulge to the right and onto a slab, which is climbed DOWN and to the right to a shallow corner (5.10a). You will probably belay here due to drag. The belay is on #3 and #3.5 Camalot, + a few TCUs and/or a tricams.

P2: Climb up in a light colored crack that has a little resident chalk. This crack is shallow & a little flaky in spots, but it protects OK with a 1.5" or 2" cam. Continue up a very steep face as the crack disappears (5.10b). Pass a rotten band on some sidepulls (the gear is poor here, so don't fall (5.10a) and then step left to get a few SOLID nuts in a horizontal. Continue up the system of cracks for about 80' total to the ledge below Long John Wall's 3rd pitch.

P3: Climb up the "inset" (stemming) of the 3rd pitch of LJW for perhaps 15 feet (5.6) until the inset disappears and you can see a flake with a 2" crack to your right. Step right onto this flake and jog upward and right on it (5.4?) before it terminates at a tiny left facing corner below a bulge. Go onto the corner and then left into a slot below the bulge. [Protect] overhead and climb the right hand of two crack through the bulge, using the one on the left as you please. This will bring you into a 5-foot wide "inset" with a crack on each side (left = thin fingers to seams, right = thin hands to wide fingers). Stemming this section is as nice as anything on LJW and is a great alternate pitch (5.9). Continue up on this to a broken ledge, being mindful not to drop rocks on your partner from the ledge. You will see a fixed rap station overhead, with blue webbing and one each, quicklink and rap ring. This is on a tree [which] is rooted behind a frightening looking flake. It is probably best to avoid this (death) rap. Big cams can be used to set a nice belay up and right of the top-out point, although you can find here and there placements for about anything.

P4 as we did it was not [previously] documented and had no recognizable signs of prior passage. It may be a First Ascent- if it is, we will call it "Quick Silver" but this is not known. If anyone has previously done this, please contact me with names and dates.

P4: "Quicksilver" (5.9+) Here is where you get to use the big gear if you brought it. From the ledge previously mentioned, below the [death]-rap-station, climb up to the right and towards a 4-6" crack though the roof at a right-facing dihedral/overhang. There is a Death block teetering here, but it can be easily avoided. It looks to be about ~ 4' x 3' x 1' it is perhaps 8 [cubic] feet due to it's non-square shape, I figure this would weigh about 2000lbs. The point is, that it WILL KILL OR MAIM SOMEONE if you knock it off. So don't. [Stem] up past the flake and to the roof/crack. You can protect the roof at the base with a #3 Camalot or 3.5" piece in a narrow spot (solid gear) and then stem higher and get in a solid 3.5"-4" cam. Protect, then pull up and left to the corner and over the roof (5.9+). During this crux, a #4 Camalot is optional, but the last [piece] is at your knees anyway. Continue up on easy hand-to-fist cracks protecting with 3" gear, if you saved any (5.5) and up to a ledge and to the top of the ridge, now 20' right of the top of LJW. Belay after slinging a [huge] boulder, or walk the ridge to the "slot" above LJW and belay as per that climb.

Descend as per LJW.

Protection

A good sized rack with A set of nuts, and cams from small TCU to 3.5" A double of #3.5 camalot or a #4 camalot is optional for the [extended] finish we did.

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