Eddie just finishing the crux moves of P3. Long John Wall, Eldorado Canyon SP, CO.

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Eddie just finishing the crux moves of P3. Long John Wall, Eldorado Canyon SP, CO.

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Brian Weiss enjoys the view of Redgarden from the top of Long John Tower on Eldo's West Ridge. Photo by Tony Bubb, January, 2001.

Long John Wall, first three pitches.

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Eric Klammer

Nov 22, 2013

“Eddie just finishing the crux moves of P3. Long John Wall, Eldorado Canyon SP, CO.”

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Nearby Photos

Top of P3.

Miguel standing at the base of the standard start (red) to Long John Wall. Ignominity in blue and Break on Through in yellow.

Donna laybacking on the "Break on Through" start.

Donna floating over the crux on the "break on through" 5.8 start.

Luke trying to figure out the sequence of the crux on pitch three!

Steeper than it looks at first, this pitch will pump you up if you fail to "break on through". Mike Ryan gets credit for the photo.

Mike looks down from the crux overhung section of pitch 2.

Brian Weiss enjoys the view of Redgarden from the top of Long John Tower on Eldo's West Ridge. Photo by Tony Bubb, January, 2001.

Eddie just finishing the crux moves of P3. Long John Wall, Eldorado Canyon SP, CO.

Long John Wall, first three pitches.

Warren on the traditional 3rd pitch, with climber following above.

George leading the first 2 pitches together on Long John Wall.

Janet Conner leading the last pitch of LJW

Second pitch.

P1 with P2 crux above.

Matt on P3.

Bring your number four! Don't have one? Borrow one from a friend. Don't have a friend that has one? Go buy one. Don't have enough money for one? Have fun!

The fire in Walker Ranch that burned 1000 some acres started the day we climbed this route.

Luke McCLure finishing the first pitch! The smile says it all. Don't skip the devious, awkward, and runout first pitch of this classic climb!

Luke, about to get eaten right before the third pitch!

Slot start of the traditional third pitch.

At the base.

Andrew Mason leading the second pitch of Long John Wall.

The second pitch ledge.

Full Break on Through start. Climb the slab, pull the roof, then go straight up the corner. To get to the tree belay that is the start of LJW p2, climb the slightly overhanging crack just visible at the top of the corner and go left.

Start of second pitch.

Marga enjoying the lead on the "Break on Through" start.

Ignominity start. Not as good as the Break on Through start, but less likely to be occupied... and still better than the regular start.

Long John Wall from the ground. The line moves more or less straight up the center of the photo.

Luke below the fourth pitch. Glad to be done with the offwidth hand crack of the third pitch and probably after seeing my anchor! It was bomber!

Evening light on the West Ridge from the P2 belay of Long John.

Second pitch, crack up to the roof.

CM on the last pitch.

Last moves of the first pitch.

Go up the shelf of the third pitch to some trees. Look on the slab of rock for bolts. If you use two 60m ropes, you can almost reach the bottom. You can scramble off from where the ropes end.

Shane Murphy at a belay--note the rich, yellow lichen on the rock, typical of Eldo.