Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Tony Bubb and Bob Shire
Page Views: 1,413 total · 7/month
Shared By: Tony B on Aug 2, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Up by Practice Climb 101 and Sidewall, the routes do not all go to the top of the ridge. Above the two aforementioned routes there is a large ledge. Muscle and Hate is a logical 3rd pitch to either of these. Step left around a big corner to a medium sized pine tree with a rap station. Look up through the huge roof with a 3" crack going out its right side. Climb pockets and a Hueco from the ledge up into the crack (TCU in pocket to protect to the side) and pull some strange moves to get into the crack-then roll for the top. This is a great climb that still needs some consensus to confirm the grade.

Protection

The pro is not bad, but the boulder-ish start could produce a twisted ankle on the ledge. The potential for serious injury is low. Take a set of cams up to a single #4. Take an extra hand size if you want to sew it up.

The route has been cleaned a little and has now had at least a second lead (on-sight). Difficulty could be hand-size dependent.

Photos

Led this today and found it to be very good, well-protected, and pumpy. Nov 12, 2002
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
'Rock' and roll, Tony.... Jan 16, 2003
Thom Engelbach
  5.10c
Thom Engelbach  
  5.10c
We thought it was more like 5.10, maybe a little bit serious before you get the first bomber hand jam.....every hold is either a jug or a sinker jam, and a double set of cams would be excessive. Still a fun diversion if you're in the neighborhood. Jan 11, 2004
A couple of body lengths of climbing through crap rock (stepping from some very questionable piles of donkey dung) to get to a couple of body lengths of steep, lichen-covered hand crack. . . 3 stars? What am I missing? Sep 27, 2004
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10d
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10d
^^^ Q: "What am I missing?"
A: Both an identity and the route, apparently. Mar 7, 2014