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> West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
Zip Code
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.6 from 70 votes
Routes in West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
Air Mail T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Backslash T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Barbie Doll Arete, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R | |
Bit by Bit T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a | |
Bottlenecks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Clean Dan T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 | |
Coffee Break with Joe T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c | |
Cold Turkey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Coniferous Types T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Crazy Fingers T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13 | |
Cruising Lane T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R | |
Detour, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R | |
Doc's Little Brother T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Dr. Michael Solar T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Duh Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Early Bird Special T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Fine Line T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Five Fang Overhang T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R | |
Fork in the Road T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R | |
Formula, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Foxtrot T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 | |
Funeral March T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Hand Crack (aka White Lightning) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Hang Ten T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c | |
Henry Chinaski T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Highway 61 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Inverted Vee T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R | |
Iron Pony T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
Kashmir T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Kubla Khan T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Lady Fingers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Lunar Avenue T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R | |
Lunar Lander T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c | |
MRJR (aka MB III) T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R | |
Masterbator's Edge, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R | |
Milk Dreams T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Milk and Honey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Mirage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R | |
Parallels T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Pool of Blood T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Positively Fourth Street T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Rhadamanthus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 | |
River Of Darkness T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Road Narrows T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Sign of the Cross T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Snail Mail T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R | |
Srinagar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Tampon T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R | |
Tango T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
Tanqueray T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R | |
Terminal Velocity T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Texas Two-Step T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R | |
Three Lane Highway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X | |
Tickle, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 | |
Toprope Right of Formula TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b | |
Trip Itch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Tryptich T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Whatever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R | |
Willow World T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R | |
Working Class Hero T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
X T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Xanadu T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Zap Snack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Zip Code T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
Type: | Trad, 130 ft |
FA: | Erikson, Woodruff, Hare, 1978 |
Page Views: | 3,548 total, 18/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on Dec 1, 2001 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Seasonal Closures
Details
Seasonal Closures (3/22/17, effective immediately)
Shirttail Peak is closed to all activities, including rock climbing, due to Golden Eagles nesting in the area. Trespassing constitutesâ€‹ a federal offense and violators will be cited. Eagles are sensitive to disturbance caused by human presence and may abandon their nest and young as a result.â€‹
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
From the BCC email: Millenium Crag is closed.
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Shirttail Peak is closed to all activities, including rock climbing, due to Golden Eagles nesting in the area. Trespassing constitutesâ€‹ a federal offense and violators will be cited. Eagles are sensitive to disturbance caused by human presence and may abandon their nest and young as a result.â€‹
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
From the BCC email: Millenium Crag is closed.
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This route is in the popular Pony Express area of the West Ridge of Eldo. Just to the left of the famous routes, Iron Horse and Iron Pony, is a crack through an overhang that continues on and up for about 130' total. The crux is about 40 feet up where a right-facing corner comes into a bulge. The crux is short and sweet stemming and a bit of body English... a 1-move wonder. I don't find the crux move particularly hard, but it can be tricky to figure out and may be harder for shorter folks. I think it is one of Eldo's easier 5.11s for average and tall folks.Mellow if you get the move right, damn hard if you don't.
Photos
14 Comments
Thanks for the comment
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Around Boulder, CO
Denver, Colorado
San Francisco
The route was lots of fun, with the exception of some potential loose rock. May 12, 2008
an Altered State
Fort Collins, CO
Fort Collins CO
Around Boulder, CO
The upper braids of cracks are superb as well, though easy.
Best to have a good handful of gear 0.25-1"
The anchor above the whole thing is a little high and difficult to clip, un-clip, etc... Single bolt + small tree with the end point out of reach to clip for shorter folks. Feb 6, 2006
Fort Collins, CO
I didn't like the rap/belay anchor at the top of this route in the red band. It's a small bush/tree. And only part of a bush/tree at that. Instead, I belayed maybe 25' lower at a good stance on a slab. Used a #2/gold Camalot in a short vertical slot and a couple of small cams. We then traversed left and up to the usual descent from Handcracker Direct, etc. Sep 23, 2004
Scottsdale, AZ