Type: Trad, 130 ft (39 m)
FA: Alec Sharp and David Moore? 1980
Page Views: 3,930 total · 21/month
Shared By: Adam Brink on Feb 5, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

The guidebook calls this route "stupendous," and I wouldn't argue. The original route starts just to the right of pitch 1 of Practice Climb, climbs that slab, turns the arete, and joins Unbroken Chain where the crack goes vertical. The second pitch climbs the spicy slab above Sidewall's first belay anchors to the hanging corner to the left of the second pitch of Sidewall. This second pitch is simply amazing, with stellar position, excellent movement and bomber protection (after the first runout)

Variation: Unbroken Prophet - this gets rid of the silly original start and allows one to link Unbroken Chain into False Prophet in one gobsmacking 130 foot pitch that might just be one of the best single stretches of climbing in Eldo. If you don't believe me, go give it a try. It has everything; lots of sustained 11+ climbing, sketchy gear, great gear, brilliant movement, great position and it just keeps going and going.

Location Suggest change

This is located in the Sidewall area. Either start the original way (not very good) to the right of Practice Climb or start with Unbroken Chain, and link it in one amazing pitch. You need a 70m rope to do this and get all the way back down.

Protection Suggest change

A little bit of everything; nuts, cams, sliders and anything else you want to bring.

Photos

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