The Side Wall
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British R
Type: |
Trad, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches
Fixed Hardware
(2) |
FA: | Erickson, Wunsch, Bragg, 1974 |
Page Views: | 4,680 total · 17/month |
Shared By: | Steve Levin on Sep 17, 2002 · Updates |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Per Mark Rolofson:
Pitch 1: 5.11a/b R. Begin by climbing up a large dihedral below the obvious chalked up face. The right wall is slabby but gradually steepens. A slot finally appears where a yellow Alien (0.75 cam) can be placed. Continue up the dihedral for a few more moves to a small shelf on the left wall. Take a good rest standing on the shelf after placing the protection. The wall is steep enough - it is not possible to get a no hands rest here. There are tiny micro-Stopper placements in the leaning corner on the right. There is an overhead nut placement in a thin expanding flake on the left wall that protects the crux moves. A few tricky moves lead to a bolt that protects strenuous moves with positive holds leading up left to a 2 bolt anchor.
Bring several #2-3, a #6 Black Diamond micro-Stoppers (RPs), a yellow Alien, and a quickdraw for the bolt. Double ropes add immensely to making this pitch safe.
Pitch 2: 5.10d. Moderate climbing leads up the dihedral to where the crack thins down. A hard stemming section leads to a ledge Protect with cams to 3", small stoppers, #5-6 Black Diamond micro-Stoppers, and a sling for a horn. This pitch has good protection.
From here, it is possible to traverse left to above the 2nd pitch of Practice Climb 101 and rappel off a small tree or continue up a moderate pitch and a large ledge. Descend to the left down a series of ledges.
Between Spring 1980 and Spring 1990, I climbed this route often (15-20 times). There is quite a bit of protection on the first pitch even though it is most tiny nuts. I always thought the first pitch was easier than Guenese, Vertigo, or Center Route. There is a lot of protection for an R-rated route, and It isn't runout.
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