Type: Trad, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches Fixed Hardware (2)
FA: Erickson, Wunsch, Bragg, 1974
Page Views: 4,680 total · 17/month
Shared By: Steve Levin on Sep 17, 2002 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Per Mark Rolofson:

Pitch 1: 5.11a/b R. Begin by climbing up a large dihedral below the obvious chalked up face. The right wall is slabby but gradually steepens. A slot finally appears where a yellow Alien (0.75 cam) can be placed. Continue up the dihedral for a few more moves to a small shelf on the left wall. Take a good rest standing on the shelf after placing the protection. The wall is steep enough - it is not possible to get a no hands rest here. There are tiny micro-Stopper placements in the leaning corner on the right. There is an overhead nut placement in a thin expanding flake on the left wall that protects the crux moves. A few tricky moves lead to a bolt that protects strenuous moves with positive holds leading up left to a 2 bolt anchor.

Bring several #2-3, a #6 Black Diamond micro-Stoppers (RPs), a yellow Alien, and a quickdraw for the bolt. Double ropes add immensely to making this pitch safe.

Pitch 2: 5.10d. Moderate climbing leads up the dihedral to where the crack thins down. A hard stemming section leads to a ledge Protect with cams to 3", small stoppers, #5-6 Black Diamond micro-Stoppers, and a sling for a horn. This pitch has good protection.

From here, it is possible to traverse left to above the 2nd pitch of Practice Climb 101 and rappel off a small tree or continue up a moderate pitch and a large ledge. Descend to the left down a series of ledges.

Between Spring 1980 and Spring 1990, I climbed this route often (15-20 times). There is quite a bit of protection on the first pitch even though it is most tiny nuts. I always thought the first pitch was easier than Guenese, Vertigo, or Center Route. There is a lot of protection for an R-rated route, and It isn't runout.

Protection Suggest change

Little RPs and TCUs for P1, then wireds and perhaps a cam or two up to 2" for P2. It isn't too hard to combine into one long lead, that is if minor rope drag is acceptable.

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