Zeros and Ones
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British PG13
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 39.93203, -105.28849 |
| FA: | Steve Levin & Chris Weidner, March 2008 |
| Page Views: | 1,885 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Steve Levin on Apr 6, 2008 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This is the original last pitch of the 4 pitch 1966 Dalke brothers 5.7 A3 aid route Practice Climb 101, first described in High Over Boulder 1970. The upper aid pitches were omitted in Jim Erickson’s 1980 Rocky Heights ‘free climbs’ guidebook, which described only the 5.11a first pitch, freed in 1976 by Dave Breashears, Jim Erickson and Steve Wunsch. After John Allen freed pitch two in 1981, subsequent guidebooks described it as only a two pitch climb, hence the last pitch was lost in the historical record until 2009 with the publication of the Sharp End guidebook.
This is the large mudstone roof about 20 feet left of the Sooberb crux roof. Somewhat positive climbing with adequate gear leads out the roof, to decisive crux moves at the lip. A much easier crack and face then leads to the summit. This is a very reasonable onsight lead for the Eldo climber climbing at the grade. This is a good pitch of climbing that deserves more attention.



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