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Routes in West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John

Barrel of Monkeys S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bloke On The Side T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Bridget the Midget T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Byway T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Chick on the Side T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Conversions T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X
Court Jester T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Crazy Stairs T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Curving Dihedral T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dandi-Line T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dead Letter Department T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Drug Abuse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Erickson's Finish T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
False Prophet T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fever, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Going Postal T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Good Ship Venus T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Handcracker Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hanging Chad T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Heat Wave T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Horse d'Oeuvre (aka Pony Express P1 to Zip Code) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Human Factor, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Hyperspace Roundup T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Ignominity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ignore Me T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Iron Horse T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Knife, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lightning Bolt Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lost in the Netherlands T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mail Ridge Tower Link-Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mail Ridge, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mesca-Line T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Muscle and Hate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Pluto T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pony Express T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pony Express, Briggs' Variation T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Practice Climb 101 T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Practice Wall T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prison Sex T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Pygmy Pony T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Quick Silver T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Quicksand T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Quiet Desperation T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Reckoning T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Rhombohedral T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rope to Ruin T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Seemingly Innocent T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Side Wall, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Sister Morphine T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sooberb T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sooberb Lite T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sundial T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sword Of Damocles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thin Ice T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Think Quickly T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Unbroken Chain T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Warp Drive Overload S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Who's Holding T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Wind Tunnel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Zeros and Ones T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
variation to Mail Ridge T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches Fixed Hardware (6)
FA: Jim Erickson and Dave Meyers, 1969
Page Views: 827 total, 5/month
Shared By: shad O'Neel on Oct 20, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route is in a non-descript area of the West Ridge between Handcracker Direct and Practice Climb 101. Rossiter describes it as 'good in parts', the beginning is good, but contrary to the paper book, I'd give it a serious rating. There is little gear at the bottom, and ground fall potential exists from quite high.

Start at the bottom of a nice looking slab with a ledge 10 feet up or so. Climb the slab, I wiggled in two RPs and got a funny Alien placement. Then climb up and left a bit on improving holds. You'll see a mess of slings above you. Pass these and continue through short steps with plenty of choss atop each ledge. Lots of belay options exist.

Do a funny traverse across a block to a neat dihedral then climb some mungy thing to the top.

There are three trees with rap slings on them. The first rap is short, the second is exactly 100'. With a 50 m rope you'll downclimb.

Fun for the adventure, but not classic by any means.

Protection

Standard rack to 3", include a couple RPs.

Photos

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Tonya Clement
Boulder, CO
Tonya Clement   Boulder, CO
Who knows if we were on route or not but we had fun. From the ground we could see a tree with slings just above and slightly right a nice slab with what appeared to be little to no gear placements. We started up just to the right side of this slab where gear could be placed in a crack system. We were forced to traverse back slightly left and on up to the visible tree with slings. This was a fun 5.7 and as others say, you could stop here.

But NO, we had to keep going. The next pitch did require light footing so as to not dislodge an avalanche of rocks. P2 was dismal but there was a little reward for the suffering. Once we hit what seemed to be the rotten band at the end of this pitch, we carefully walked right (maybe 10-15 feet) and found one final short pitch (30 feet) of good climbing up a slot with good gear. We made three raps from the top to the ground landing 40 feet right of the start of the climb.

We need not do it again, but it was fun for a season opener. Apr 19, 2008
DanMoore  
 
I'd do the first pitch and then rap to the ground. We didn't actually go up the right side of the slab--my partner headed up to the left (up a groove), then back right. This was ok, but the left side looked like more fun (at least on rap). Wouldn't bother with the rest of the route, though. As above, lots of loose blocks and scrambling rather than climbing. Jul 7, 2005
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
Feels like mountaineering in a place known for rock climbing. Helmet recommended. There are many variations possible. Only for those interested in obscurity or who done every other route in Eldo of the grade. Worth a star in FL. Oct 23, 2003