Avg: 2 from 7 votes
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft (30 m)|
|FA:||A. Sharp & J Bremer, 1980|
|Page Views:||1,574 total · 9/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Mar 6, 2006|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
For more information visit:
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
The climb is tough right from the start. Come off of the slab (unprotected) and pull into some tedious moves to grab a jug at the lip of the roof and match (solid, for the most part) then establish feet and move up and right to a downward-flaring finger lock and some strange holds off of a strenuous foot to the far right, then up and right to face holds (crux).
A narrow profile 1.5" cam can go below the fingerlock, and some #6-8 BD stoppers somewhat above it, probably before commiting to the crux move. Perhaps you could get a good cam in just above the lock too, but then it might be in the way and the crack flares downward, so I imagine it would be dubious.
From there continue up on somewhat hard moves (5.10+?) with some limited but decent protection to finish the climb, which eases off to puzzle-piece climbing after 10-15 meters and comes to a good belay spot on a solid finger crack (cams .5-1", heavy on the .75). You can belay or continue up and left to join The Human Factor (5.10, S, loose rock).
It may also be possible to retreat right all the way to join Sooberb. Regardless, there is a 100' rap on the next ledge up.
The climb in all is probably 5.11a and not 10c as suggested in the Eldo book.
To TR this climb, set a rope from good cams (.5" to 1" at what I refer to as the belay. This can also be accessed after leading Hanging Chad (10, S). You'll still have to get out of this mess though, which we did by finishing on 'The Human Factor.' In short, you have to lead 5.10 S just to TR this. Be mindful.