Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: A. Sharp & J Bremer, 1980
Page Views: 1,574 total · 9/month
Shared By: Tony B on Mar 6, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: COVID-19 Notice & Seasonal Closures Details

Description

A hard climb on difficult to place and difficult gear, or a decent toprope.

The climb is tough right from the start. Come off of the slab (unprotected) and pull into some tedious moves to grab a jug at the lip of the roof and match (solid, for the most part) then establish feet and move up and right to a downward-flaring finger lock and some strange holds off of a strenuous foot to the far right, then up and right to face holds (crux).

A narrow profile 1.5" cam can go below the fingerlock, and some #6-8 BD stoppers somewhat above it, probably before commiting to the crux move. Perhaps you could get a good cam in just above the lock too, but then it might be in the way and the crack flares downward, so I imagine it would be dubious.

From there continue up on somewhat hard moves (5.10+?) with some limited but decent protection to finish the climb, which eases off to puzzle-piece climbing after 10-15 meters and comes to a good belay spot on a solid finger crack (cams .5-1", heavy on the .75). You can belay or continue up and left to join The Human Factor (5.10, S, loose rock).

It may also be possible to retreat right all the way to join Sooberb. Regardless, there is a 100' rap on the next ledge up.

The climb in all is probably 5.11a and not 10c as suggested in the Eldo book.

To TR this climb, set a rope from good cams (.5" to 1" at what I refer to as the belay. This can also be accessed after leading Hanging Chad (10, S). You'll still have to get out of this mess though, which we did by finishing on 'The Human Factor.' In short, you have to lead 5.10 S just to TR this. Be mindful.

Location

3 cracks right of P1 of 'Sidewall' or 2 cracks left of 'The Sick Flake' pitch of 'Sooberb.' Immediately left of 'Hanging Chad' by ~3 meters.

Protection

A rack with double cams from .3" to 1.5" plus a set of nuts certainly including some steel or brass. Pro will be pumpy to place and sometimes sparse or questionable. Falling from the beginning overhang before reaching the jug (5.10?, reachy) would be disastrous.

Photos