Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Dougald MacDonald, Dave Goldstein
Page Views: 1,349 total · 7/month
Shared By: Dougald MacDonald on Oct 14, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


49 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is a bit contrived and the best section is short, but very fun climbing and surprisingly good pro make this a worthy addition to the Pony Express area. This route follows the arete immediately to the right of Dandi-Line and about 8 feet left of Sister Morphine. Start on Dandi-Line and step right onto the large block at the base of the arete, about 40 feet above the ground. The next 20 feet is the crux, with balancey arete-palming and face moves. Place pro in an intermittent vertical crack to the right and horizontals higher up. Make sure you have a #1.5 Friend or equivalent to protect a short slot at mid-crux. Stay on or right of the arete all the way to the top -- this feels contrived in the second half, where it would be easy to step left into Dandi-Line, but the crux section (and best climbing) is totally independent.

Protection

Standard Eldo rack with RPs, up to hand-size cams.

Photos

Wayne Crill
an Altered State
  5.9
Wayne Crill   an Altered State
  5.9
I did this line yesterday not previously knowing anything about it. I think it's better than Dougald and Dave imply. Yeah, I guess it's a bit contrived, but it is big fun for when you're in the area, easily toproped off the SM anchors and a safe lead at the grade (though not for breaking into it). For maximum contrived fun, I recommend the unprotected 20' direct slab approach off the ground (between DL and SM), nice quality, some kinda .10. Nov 24, 2008
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Gear and difficulty are both a bit height-dependent. I'd give it 5.9+.... Nov 22, 2009
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.9+
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.9+
The gear is tricky to place onsight, but it protects well. 9+ lead and maybe 9 on toprope. Feb 18, 2011
AOSR
Wherever we park!
  5.9+ PG13
AOSR   Wherever we park!
  5.9+ PG13
Not so sure about this one. Contrived and awkward climbing. Mar 26, 2011
Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
  5.9+ PG13
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
  5.9+ PG13
I thought this was a fun line with good moves and somewhat adequate protection. How often do you get to toe hook and bear hug your way up an arete on a 5.9? While the pro was decent, there are a few places where a fall could smash you back on the big pillar below. Probably not a great lead for those breaking into 5.9. Apr 7, 2015
plantmandan
Brighton, CO
  5.9+
plantmandan   Brighton, CO
  5.9+
Definitely worth doing on TR if you're in the area, but leading would be a challenge. As mentioned below, a lead fall at the crux could be bad. Sep 23, 2018